In my travels to Italy over the years, I had pondered Naples. But even with numerous trips to nearby Rome and the Amalfi Coast, time after time I reluctantly decided to pass Naples by. I had read articles and heard personal anecdotes that Naples was dangerous and crime pervasive. So, I took these as signs to skip Naples. Yet elusive Naples continued to intrigue me with the lure of gritty old world urbanity and arguably the best pizza in the world.
So recently, when a friend and I decided to spend a few days on the Island of Ischia, fate took a turn toward Naples. With Ischia just off the Naples coast, we would need to pass through Naples to catch the ferry to the island. It was finally time to stick my toe into Naples.
Naples’ Unique Rhythm
The Freccarossa train whisked us from Roma Termini to Napoli Centrale in just over an hour. We hopped into a taxi in front of the frenetic train station and headed to our hotel, quickly swept up into Naples’ unique dance.
The streets teemed with Napoletanos and cars, each vying to control the streets. Pedestrians played chicken with our taxi in wide, laneless traffic circles. Our driver never blinked, edging blasé pedestrians back to their sidewalk. The frenetic atmosphere was compelling, and made Rome seem calm and laid back by comparison. Naples has a rhythm all its own, and we aimed to synch-up.
Our taxi dropped us at the Decumani Hotel de Charme, situated on a street so narrow that it could not accommodate cars. As we approached our hotel, graffiti lined every inch of wall space. Anxious to explore, we quickly deposited our bags and headed out into the Naples streets to join the fray.
Naples is at once a sensory explosion. It is a gritty, modern city with an old world feel, and the streets are filled with people of mixed ethnicities. Naples truly is that iconic city of picturesque narrow streets where colorful laundry suspends high above you in the air.
Tangles of beautiful buildings in disrepair line the streets. And still it is breathtaking.
First order of business this early morning was to seek out caffeine. On a long narrow lane we found Pasticceria Leopoldo Napoli. I chose a Pignoli Tarrallo and ordered a Capuccino. We took our receipts and Taralli to the bustling counter and waited for a our coffee to arrive.
Standing at the counter we quickly downed our piccolo Italian breakfast, fortified for the day ahead.
Naples is Dense with Ambiance and Street Art
Emerging back onto the streets, I was obsessed with the colorful and dramatic graffiti art that assaults you at every turn. There is something about Naples’ street art that is so raw and organic that it is mesmerizing. The pervasive graffiti has become an integral part of the vintage Centro Storico.
Street art is now such an integral part of the worldwide urban landscape that the wall-to-wall graffiti felt like democratic creative expression, not vandalism. What makes Naples so compelling is that it is not tied up in pretty, curated murals. It has a clear, unique personality that will give even the most casual stroller a strong impression of the city.
Architectural Naples
We aimlessly wandered the narrow Naples streets, never tiring of the next stunning church or compelling piazza.
Underground Naples
After we had wandered the streets for a couple of hours, taking in the clash of vintage architecture and contemporary graffiti art, we came upon the intriguing tourist sight of Underground Naples. We decided to take a risk that this might be a kitschy tourist trap. But it wasn’t. It was a cool archaeological site that allowed us to descend back in time, more than 2,000 years.
A tour guide led about twenty of us 400 meters below Naples, providing us with substantive history. This place had been carved out of the earth in ancient times to be a cistern to feed the city of Naples with water, and you can still the water levels carved into the tufa stone walls.
Our guide continued to lead us deeper into the earth. I was taken aback when she began to light candles with a small blowtorch intended for each of us to carry into a very dark narrow cave.
She offered for those of us concerned about walking into small spaces to hang back for about 10 minutes. I am definitely not a fan of small spaces, but I refused to miss out on this experience.
In single file we each slid into the narrowest opening of a low-ceilinged corridor.
In some places the corridor was so narrow that we had to turn sideways to continue to move through. As we followed one another closely in a crevice so dark we could barely see the person in front of us, I kept thinking this sort of risky adventure with open flames would never be permitted in the U.S.
Just as the path was becoming unbearably narrow it opened onto a stunning pool of water. This cistern, once so vital to Naples, had been forgotten for centuries until WWII when it became a convenient bomb shelter. Luckily we were able to exit through a less treacherous route. The guide had taken us on the claustrophobic path in order to recreate the experience of walking in the shoes of the ancient “cleaners” who had kept the water in good condition.
Eating Pizza in Naples
Emerging from the depths of the earth in mid-afternoon we were starving and went in search of the quintessential Naples meal: Pizza. We headed to find recommended Antica Pizzaria. We were at the end of the lunch rush, and the restaurant had thinned out. Restaurant staff lounged with their own lunch. The old world setting was charming and the staff welcoming.
We had heard that Antica’s fritti was particularly good and felt obliged to start there. It arrived in a huge pile of perfectly fried veggie options consisting of Arancini, Zucchini, Potato Croquettes, and more.
Next came the fantastic Putanesca Pizza, which is my favorite. It was covered in salty olives and capers.
We left Antica completely satisfied.
Naples is Electric at Night
As 5pm approached Napoletanos began to pour into the piazzas, seeking respite with an aperitivo of colorful Campari drinks in piazza cafes. We obligingly joined the ritual, grabbing a table of our own in a shaded terrace.
Teenagers and twentysomethings hovered around the edges in a Happy Hour camaraderie all their own.
As the evening progressed and the lights of the city emerged, the vibe began to change. We reluctantly gave up our cafe seats and went in search of dinner, craving local fare but a change-up from pizza.
We popped into Pulcinella Bistro a recommended restaurant near our hotel. The cave-like interior was cozy and charming, and the service friendly.
Local seafood seemed the way to go and we opted for a dish of Scampi – seemingly, part lobster-part shrimp – and a Seafood Salad.
And what Naples meal is complete without Baba?
Leaving the restaurant around 10pm, we found Naples in full overdrive on a Tuesday night. You could feel the electricity in the air as throngs of young people claimed the streets and piazzas.
Long lines of Napoletanos waited to get into downtown clubs. And hordes of youth lounged on the curbs socializing.
The mood was vibrant and fun. This, apparently, is an every night occurrence.
We strolled the streets taking in this social scene that felt organic and alive.
24-Hours in Naples Comes to an End
It was time to have a quick breakfast in the hotel’s dramatic and beautiful dining room before we checked out.
While I was disappointed to have my only day in Naples coincide with the closure of the Archaeology Museum, it also allowed me more time to wander the streets and immerse in Naples’ zeitgeist.
24-hours in Naples gave me the confidence and craving to return to this unique and historic city, even on a solo journey. I found Napoletanos to be friendly and helpful. This city has a visceral joie de vivre that must be experienced. One day in Naples is not enough… but it’s a start.
