Over the many times I’ve been to Rome, I’ve never spent less than a week. The best was camping out in an apartment in Esquilino for two weeks. That’s how dense Rome is with history, food, wine, and art. I could spend my days mesmerized just by wandering Rome’s ancient and walkable streets. With each step, there is something compelling to grab my attention.
Eggplant Parmigiana – Ai Tre Scalini
About Roman Food:
Unlike most of my travels, the Rome Journal does not contain a large list of restaurants. This is because the food scene in Italy remains generally traditional and homogenous. On the one hand, this is a big plus to immerse in Italian classics by region. On the other hand, it means that you will largely find the same dishes from eatery to eatery. The first few days, it’s like being a kid in a candy store – and then I begin to crave variety. Considering that Italy is renowned for its cuisine, it is stunning (with a few exceptions) that Italy is MIA from the modern world food revolution. That, however, doesn’t make the food any less delicious. I tend to eat in wine bars where I find delicious small plates, and sometimes full meals. And a visit to the Ghetto for Roman/Jewish artichokes is essential.
About Rome Churches:
There is a church on every corner in Rome. When you cross one, don’t pass it up. While the ruins of ancient Rome tell the story of the beginning of a great civilization, Churches express the history of the Renaissance. Churches are filled with history and famous art – as they were typically the patrons of the best Renaissance artists.
The Pantheon is Now a Church
Piazza Madonna ai Monti
About Roman Piazzas:
One of the best aspects of Rome is wandering its ancient cobblestone streets only to happen upon a charming piazza. Likewise, the large famous piazzas are amazing with their stunning architecture and fountains – and worth putting up with hawkers.
Don’t Miss:
Rome’s amazing wine bars, history & architecture, Churches, the view of the Forum from the Tabularium, Monti neighborhood, Craft Beer, Lounging in Piazzas with an Aperitivo, Underground Rome, Michelangelo’s Pieta, Hunt for Bernini sculpture, Galleria Borghese, Hunt for the Egyptian Obelisks, Mercato delle Stampe – Use the Google Map Below to navigate this and more.
Rome Tips…
- Pay first: In cafes, bakeries, gelaterias – typically, you will pay first and then take the receipt to the counter to place your order. Completely logical, but perhaps a little counter-intuitive for Americans.
- Always validate your train tickets (yellow platform boxes) before you onboard.
- Recommended Books / Courses / Videos: City Secrets Rome; Coursera: Yale Course on Roman Architecture, The Power of Art: Bernini, The Power of Art: Caravaggio
- Local Bloggers are a great way to understand Rome, as well as get off-the-beaten-path Katie Parla, An American in Rome, Romeing
Scroll to Rome Neighborhoods – and see Rome Map at Page Bottom…
Celio – Campodoglio – Campo de’ Fiori – Monti – Navona – Testaccio – Trastevere
Celio
Great jazz wine bar a short walk past the Colisseum. Small plates and terrific wine – take a friend so you can share a bottle. This spot focus on a great jazz floor show, so be sure to reserve your table in advance.
I have made a pilgrimage to the Domus Aurea (Nero’s Golden House) twice. It is exhilarating to venture underground to view vast and cutting-edge architecture – not just of the time, but as influential even today. It is heartbreaking to see the frescos fading away as water from the heavy park above spurs the water damage. The Domus Aurea was closed for years due to the unstable nature of the structure. But now you can don a hard hat and follow an expert guide with an advance ticket – on the weekends only. The ticket price is nominal and helps to fund the restoration of this magnificent architecture. Be sure to reserve far in advance given limited entry times.
- Basilica San Clemente
The best part of lovely San Clemente church is going underground. The current basilica is built atop the original church and venturing below is like walking back in time. Upstairs church is free – small fee to head into the excavation.
One of the best off-the-beaten-path Rome finds is this quiet convent with its gorgeous interior 13th century cloister. Completely unassuming from the exterior – you have to know to look for this spot. Still run by nuns, the Quattro is a peaceful oasis that I found hard to leave. You must ring the bell for the nuns to allow you entry. The architecture is stunning and there are beautiful fading frescos in the rooms surrounding the cloister.
Il Pentagrappolo Jazz Wine Bar
Octagonal Room – Domus Aurea
Oculus of Octagonal Room – Domus Aurea
Campodoglio
This might be my favorite spot in Rome. Yes – the Capitoline Museum alone is worth a couple of hours. The piazza designed my Michel Angelo is stunning. But the breathtaking scene that blows me away every time is a trip to the hidden Tabularium. This is the original facade of the ancient Tabularium – sort of ancient government library. The porticos overlook the Forum, which is particularly amazing when the crowds have gone home, the sun is setting and the lights are starting to come up. It is simply mesmerizing.
You kind of have to know what you’re looking for. To find the Tabularium, enter the main museum building and walk down the staircase to your left. When you’re at the long corridor of stele, turn to your right and walk up the stairs. You will find yourself in the older part of the building. Walk to the back until you reach the porticos that overlook the Forum. Put tongue back in mouth. Upon arrival at Capitoline Hill, if you’re a serious urban hiker, trek up the steep front stairs to the piazza. Otherwise, just grab a taxi to bypass the hill portion.
View from the Campodoglia – Capitoline Museum
Campo de’ Fiori
For me, the best parts of the Campo neighborhood are the places that surround its central eponymous piazza. Wander the back streets and you’ll happen upon charming and stylish boutiques and galleries. And when I’m passing through this ‘hood, these are the places I’m sure to visit time and again…
While the quality of wine bars in Rome is steeply competitive, my favorite may be Il Gocetto for its down-to-earth, local neighorhood vibe. Has a bit of a library feel – if your library were filled with amazing wine. Fantastic small plates and knowledgeable wine staff. Check out the deli case and chalkboard wine list at the bar – kind of a mix of table service and order at the bar. Staff can get super busy, but the are on top of it.
Roscioli has a little foodie empire across a couple of blocks of the Campo. Check out the Forno for stunning bakery goods — as everyone knows, the pizza bianco is to die for. Drop by the Forno – but definitely book in advance for the restaurant. Down the block the restaurant is sort of casual upscale dining. You can pop in to buy a wedge of amazing cheese or sit down for a tasty meal. The menu is pretty traditional, but high quality. The ambient dining in upscale deli surroundings is probably half the reason to book a reservation – seriously book ahead.
I adore this unassuming piazza – there is something casual and hidden, yet grandiose that is truly compelling. Vintage twin fountains formed from ancient basins from the Baths of Caracalla, but which have living in this cool piazza since the 16th century. The piazza is ringed by the Palazzo Farnese (now housing the French Embassy), a church and various bars and restaurants. Pick any establishment – such as Ar Galatto or Wine Bar Camponeschi to pause and enjoy the view.
This is one of my new fave places in Rome. An interesting and robust list of craft beers – including local – are the main attraction. But the maze of interesting rooms is the other. The main modern room grabbed me upon entry. But if you can’t find a seat there, something better may await you. Upstairs cozy, ambient nooks will make you want to plug in, grab a great beer and never want to leave. A range of burger style comfort food – but don’t miss the housemade chips.
Il Gocetto Wine Bar
Cheese Plate – Il Gocetto
Giubinaro at Night
Open Baladin for Craft Beer
Monti
Admittedly, this is my favorite Rome homebase. It’s the first place I ever stayed in Rome, and I’ve remained enamored. Yes, there are plenty of hotels, but it still feels local while being filled with amazing restaurants, wine bars, and shops. I never get over the romance of walking down its narrow streets only to be confronted by the Colisseum looming down one street and the Forum down another. Monti offers a different kind of central location with an easy 15 minute walk to the Centro, but a local hotspot to end your day with vibrant nightlife. It’s also a gateway to more off-the-beaten path churches and architecture in Esquilino and Celio.
Definitely a more casual, neighborhood wine bar with delicious casual food. You can sit in the dining room, but I like to sit in the bar and choose a wine by the glass off the chalkboard. While you wait for your food to arrive, they will bring you a bowl of taralli – if you’re like me, you will become addicted to these classic puglinese olive oil crackers. Everything is delicious, but I am in love with their eggplant parmigiana. Ai Tre Scalini could be easy to miss. Your tip-off will be the low-hanging vines across via Panisperna and locals congregating out side of the non-description door. Genuinely hospitable service.
I adore this family run spot on Serpenti that is mostly filled with locals and serves delicious wine by the glass and bottle, including for takeaway. The delicious small plates are traditional and made by the owner’s mother. I am completely addicted to the fried/marinated zucchini (that will leave you obsessing over how it is made) and the eggplant parmigiana. This spot has a rustic and charming vibe. Small – desirable tables / bar seating in the front with additional seating in the back.
La Barrique is more of a restaurant with a great wine list. So, this is a wine bar where it would be ideal to make a reservation, although we were able to get a table with a short wait on a Friday night. But this place is popular, so it’s a gamble. The food is great, service friendly, and wine spectacular. It’s the kind of spot where you could buy a bottle of wine and enjoy at one of the outside tables
Amazingly 313 is still on my list to visit. This speaks to the amount of amazing wine bars in Rome. This place gets high marks. So, definitely next time…
This weekend market – Mercato Monti – is a fantastic spot to find really cool artisan gifts – or feel like you’re taking home some unique art. I found some amazing, super cool jewelry here.
This gelateria has become a bit of a Rome chain – but the artisan quality is still high. The flavor combos are inventive, and the flavors pure. Completely worth a stop.
Colosseum from Monti
Al Vino Al Vino Wine Bar
Forum of Augustus from Monti
Ai Tre Scalini
La Barrique Wine Bar
La Barrique
Navona
Adorable, tiny wine bar with delicious meals that veer off the typical Roman – and, of course, great wine list. Outdoor patio is squishy – inside is cozy as well, but it is fascinating to watch the bustle maneuver inside this minuscule establishement.
Charming tea room that serves lovely lunch buffet of salads, quiche, and the like when you just need a change from typical Italian. But this is a buffet of housemade dishes set on a sideboard that makes you feel you’ve been invited over for lunch. A little oasis when you just need a cup of tea or a glass of wine in a cozy setting.
View from the Campodoglia – Capitoline Museum
Testacccio
Fantastic food market with a mix of produce, deli, prepared foods …and, of course, wine bars.
A museum of sorts with ancient statuary juxtaposed against the industrial backdrop of a former power plant.
Contemporary art museum housed in 19th century slaughterhouse.
Testaccio Market
Trastevere & Environs
Down-to-earth and lively craft beer spot with lots of changing taps – local and international. Friendly and knowledgeable, staff will help you choose right. At first glance, Ma Che appears to be a hole-in-the-wall with its minuscule front bar but there is a small room in the back. Better yet, hang out on the front cobblestones with the locals who spill out the front door.
Natural wine bar in the hills above Rome, run by affable proprietors who are passionate about natural wine and mezcal. Casual, but inventive plates. The space is modern and comfortable with a front patio. Completely worth jumping in a taxi. Runs from breakfast till late. Early in the week seems quiet, but safest to reserve.
Interesting pizzas – with plenty of fritti options – with extensive craft beer options.
Ma Che Siete Venuti a Fa for Craft Beer
Litro Natural Wine Bare in Monteverde
Litro Wine Bar – Monteverde
Planet Gusto’s Rome Map
