Captivating Dublin is always vibrant, changing, and just… quintessentially Dublin. And it’s why I’m compelled to keep returning. I have been traveling to Dublin long enough to have some favorite go-to spots that I long for when I’m away. So, my recent Dublin discoveries have only intensified competition for my all too precious Dublin time. Some of these finds are newish and some are just new to me. Not surprisingly, food and street art are big themes for me in this list of 20 recommendations worth seeking out.
Dublin Landmark: The Grand Canal
Camping Out along the Canal
This was the first time I ever stayed along the Grand Canal. I’ve previously walked its lush tree-lined path from the Portobello neighborhood to the dramatic modern architecture of the Docklands. The Canal is dotted with bridges and locks, street art, and benches to pause and admire whimsical sculpture. But staying in a neighborhood gives you an entirely different perspective.
The Canal vibe is slow and relaxing.
I love to go on a treasure hunt for these charming, inspiring Bees by @buzzy.be as I wander Dublin. These charming Bees tend to be concentrated around the Portobello/Canal area, although I have spotted them further afield.
Dublin Neighborhood: Leeson Street Upper
3FE Coffee
I was so happy to be able to grab my morning caffeine just around the corner at 3fe Coffee, just off the Canal on Sussex Terrace. 3fe is not new to me – and I seek it out whenever I’m in Dublin. I love their flagship coffeehouse on Grand Canal Street Lower on the way to the Grand Canal Docklands. But that’s typically an off-the-beaten-path journey for me to get there. Discovering that my temporary neighborhood came with its own 3fe, put this quaint ‘hood over-the-top.
Another benefit of staying around the Canal is that it borders other vibrant micro ‘hoods with great pubs, cafes, and restaurants.
Forest & Marcy
I reserved for Forest & Marcy a couple weeks in advance and awaited my Sunday evening meal with anticipation. Dining solo, I sat at the counter and had a great view of the precise plating operation at this modern Irish bistro. Forest & Marcy staff were incredibly friendly and happy to chat in the lull before the dining room began to fill up around 8pm. The seasonal menu is creative and quintessentially modern Irish gastro. Forest & Marcy is an intimate dining space with friendly, down-to-earth ambiance. I was in heaven with the vegetarian and pescatarian options that brilliantly layered each dish with complex flavors and texture. Forest & Marcy also curates a delicious and interesting world wine list.
Dublin Neighborhood:Portobello
Reference Coffee
I was anxious to check out Reference Coffee. Tucked into a little side street – and next door to sister cafe Meet Me in the Morning – Reference is an austerely modern hole-in-the wall. Reference was on my daily path to keep caffeine-fueled during my jet-lag haze.
The Grey Area Project – Subset Collective
I generally like to wander alleys. And Portobello’s back streets have some of the most dense and interesting graffiti anywhere. I always like to check out what’s new. The biggest evolution in Dublin street art these days is the Subset Collective’s Grey Area Project. Subset’s mission is to bring color and life to derelict buildings and streets. Despite the clear benefit the project brings to Dublin, there has been contentiousness with the local city council. Authorities asserts the artists are violating the law by creating art on Dublin buildings despite having permission from building owners to create the murals. Moreover, Subset has launched an organic and expressive movement of art across city walls that had been sorely lacking. Subset doubles down on in its mission to improve the streets of Dublin by supporting social issues such as homelessness and climate change and have held fundraisers to support these efforts.
Pickle – Indian Bistro
With so many great food options across Dublin, I had been trying to figure out how I was going to squeeze in Pickle. Then I saw Pickle chef and proprietor Sunil Ghai speak at the Galway food summit, Food on the Edge. The way he spoke of how he strives to bring the complex flavors of his home country to Ireland, I knew I had to make Pickle happen. Pickle is a casual bistro with fine dining sensibilities. My lunch was delicious, but the dinner menu is even more complex and interesting that I will make dinner a priority on my next Dublin trip.
Delahunt’s – The Sitting Room Cocktail Bar
Above Delahunt’s charming dining room is its Sitting Room, a Victorian lounge accessed through an obscure side door. This was a great cozy living room in which to end the evening with a gin nightcap.
Bastible
Bastible was another neighborhood Irish bistro I was excited to try. It was worth the trek to get there. The dishes have a refined rustic style that are carefully composed. Bastible has definitely become a destination for food lovers. The service was efficient and welcoming. Every dish was wonderful, but I was blown away by this Scallop dish that I still dream of.
Dublin Neighborhood:Smithfield
I love to wander through Smithfield to see what’s new. This artsy, local ‘hood has not even begun to hit its stride. But there are glimmers of artisan ventures that portend its future. But I long for it to maintains its low-key sparse edginess.
Smithfield Street Art – Subset Collective
Subset murals abound around Smithfield.
The Fish Shop – Benburb Street
This tiny, no-reservation hole-in-the wall was one of my favorite Ireland experiences. Warm and inviting on a wet, rainy night made the trek to Smithfield so worthwhile. Though miniscule, the Fish Shop uses its counter space seating to full advantage. The Fish Shop concept is brilliant: utilizing the freshest local fish in a comfort food style such as Fish & Chips, Filet o’ Fish, and Squid Sliders paired with upscale glasses of wine on a changing chalkboard. Don’t let the menu fool you, this place is refinement all the way and you can get a great plate of oysters here.
The Fish Shop – Queen St.
Don’t confuse the Fish Shop on Benburb Street with its nearby sister Fish Shop on Queen St. – also very good, small sit down. Reservation recommended.
Proper Order Coffee
I can’t have too many good coffee roaster options. And Proper Order Coffee is a keeper. Not just for its delicious coffee served with your own personal bottle of cream, but its cozy ambiance and friendly service that makes you just want to hang out there all day.
Dublin Neighborhood:Temple Bar
I try hard to avoid the fray of Temple Bar – and it’s hard to do. Smack dab in the center of Dublin, it always seems to be on the path to somewhere. Don’t get me wrong, there are some great spots in Temple Bar, but I’m usually deterred by the throngs of tourists and revelers. So, no one is more surprised than me to have must-go recommendations in Temple Bar.
Klaw
I had had my eye on Klaw even before I headed to Dublin. Given it’s Temple Bar location and its miniscule dining space, I had a strategy to check it out at an off-hour to avoid lines to get in.
Klaw is a super cool, laid-back hole-in-the-wall oasis in Temple Bar with stellar fresh seafood that is locally sourced. And it might have the best Lobster Roll I’ve every had (sorry, Eventide — adore you). The service is superb in the tightly packed, cozy interior. You can get a nice glass of wine or local craft beer here.
I thought I was popping in for a quick turnaround on a Lobster Roll and glass of wine. But I was so sucked in by Klaw’s buzzy ambience, cool eclectic soundtrack, and phenomenal seafood that I stayed for a craft beer and a round of crab toasts.
Artists Gift Gallery
On a mission to shop for some unique local artist wares, I headed to one of my favorite local artisan galleries near Grafton. I was nearly apoplectic to find that it had closed. I became obsessed and found that the Artist Gift Gallery had relocated to the heart of Temple Bar. This fantastic artist collective is the perfect place to bring back some unique mementos and gifts while supporting local artists. I’m sure the Temple Bar location will be a boon for these dozens of really talented Irish artists.
Dublin Neighborhood: St. Stephen’s Green /Grafton Street Area
The grid of narrow, vintage streets bounded by Grafton Street and Great George South on either ends – and Dame Street and Stephen’s Green on the other ends – is one of my go-to Dublin neighborhoods. It is lively and packed with cafes, wine bars, boutique shopping – and tons of historical charm.
Loose Canon – Natural Wine & Cheese Shop
Loose Canon is a great evening spot grab a class of wine, explore an Irish Cheese Plate, and hover in close-quarters with friendly Dubliners.
P. Macs – Craft Beer
I’m always on the lookout for a good craft beer joint. P. Macs is my idea of a perfect Dublin setting – a casual, low-lit, candle-strewn pub oozing with ambiance and a slew of interesting craft beers on tap. I was really pleased with my choice of their house Vietnow IPA.
Dublin Neighborhood:The Liberties
Tivoli Car Park – Graffiti Art Gallery
When I first began spending time in Dublin, I was surprised at the dearth of street art for such an urban world city. Ireland has some amazing street artists. But the organic art was few and far between and concentrated in places like Richmond alley in Portobello behind the Bernard Shaw. A tip from a local artist led me to Tivoli Car Park. Tivoli is a raw and ever-changing outdoor urban gallery filled with a mix of precision murals and deft, visceral graffiti. It’s sad when some great pieces get painted over, but the upside is there is always something new to find. Until the Subset Collective came along to liberate art across Dublin’s city walls, this is where I turned to discover the expressive side of Dublin’s street art scene.
Dublin Neighborhood:The Liffey North
A short jaunt across the River Liffey over one of Dublin’s numerous stunning bridges from Temple Bar, there is a whole other vibrant world of food and activities.
Brother Hubbard – North
Oh Brother Hubbard North, how you’ve changed since my last visit. Once a narrow, cozy space, the cafe has now expanded into a cavernous venue next door to its former home. The price of enormous popularity. Despite its now charmless setting (think: large hotel dining room), Brother Hubbard’s dishes remain spot-on.
Arriving by 11am on a Sunday, I got at table without a wait. But as I anticipated the arrival of my breakfast order, the vast sea of tables quickly filled up around me. The waitress told me that even though the space is vastly larger than its original home, on weekends the place can be packed with lines outside down the street waiting to get it. The food is worth the wait, but I will plan future visits strategically. Service is efficient and the Middle Eastern influenced dishes are hearty and delicious. Brother Hubbard South in the Portobello neighborhood is still in its original charming digs (formerly Sister Sadie).
The Legal Eagle – Gastro Pub
I’m a fan of Elaine Murphy’s other Modern Irish comfort food bistros The Winding Stair and The Woollen Mills. So, I was interested to check out The Legal Eagle on this Dublin visit. Set in a former pub, the Legal Eagle is super friendly and comfortable. I made a reservation on a Friday night with a couple of hours notice and opted to eat at the bar. The Legal Eagle has the same seasonal, creative modern Irish cuisine as Murphy’s other restaurants. The wood-fired pizza was as delicious as it is beautiful. And I often dream of that Black Garlic Aioli that accompanied my Chips.
Dublin Train Station:Heuston Station
PSTwenty6 Cafe
On a 2-hour Dublin layover from Belfast on my way Galway, I just wanted to grab a tasty casual lunch. Heuston is a perfectly pleasant train station, but not a lot of great food options. I decided to take a risk and venture out with my suitcase and see if I could find an interesting cafe nearby. Not a 5-minute walk away, I lucked into the cute little PSTwenty6 cafe with tasty food, cozy ambiance, and friendly service. This Avocado Toast was delicious and Chips & Vinegar round out any Irish meal. This place is a keeper when you just need to get out of the train station and chill.
Navigating Dublin’s Vibrant Neighborhoods
Check out my Dublin Journal for tips and more of my favorite Dublin activities and destinations. See my New Fave map below.
