Galway’s Westend sits across the churning River Corrib a stone’s bridge away from the city’s center. The Westend is comprised of a handful of compact blocks densely packed with charming cafes and coffeehouses, award-winning restaurants, cutting-edge cocktails, and both craft beer and traditional pubs. Compared with the city’s raucous Quay Street, Galway’s Westend nightlife is vibrant but laid-back.
I perched my stay on the edge of the river with one foot in the Latin Quarter and the other in the Westend. A couple of mornings, I took an early morning stroll along the riverwalk to catch the sun rise over the Corrib.
Wending my way along the river, I happened up they eye-catching Shane O’Malley mural of vibrant abstract horses contrasting with the grey stone buildings and river wall.
Tartare Cafe + Wine Bar
Although it was the food that drew me to this intimate neighborhood. Tartare Cafe was my go-to spot in the Westend. Coffeehouse by day and ambient wine bar by night, Cafe Tartare deliciously met my transitioning needs throughout the day.
Despite its Michelin Bib Gourmand award status, Tartare has the feel of a local hole-in-the-wall find. Its small plate style is creative but down-to-earth, featuring seasonal local ingredients. The dishes are plated with a rustic artisan sensibility that grabbed me visually before I even took a bite.
I was blown away by this composed and deceptively simple looking dish of charred Baby Carrots with Sea Lettuce and salted Sheep’s Yogurt drizzled with olive oil.
These rolled Courgette (or zucchini) were light and delicious. And the baby Potatoes soaking in a deep pool of Irish butter scattered with dillisk were simple yet decadent.
Aniar
But I had planned well in advance for a six-course prix fixe meal at Tartare’s big sister, Aniar. This one-Michelin star destination is the crown jewel in JP McMahon’s mini-Galway restaurant empire. McMahon is on a mission to put Irish cuisine on the forefront both at home and on the world food scene. He seems to work at it tirelessly via local food festivals, a regular column in the Irish Times, and his evocative annual Food on the Edge symposium that explores the future of food.
Aniar is the most refined of McMahon’s restaurants, riffing a bit off the on-trend Nordic-cuisine while showing-off local Irish gastronomy to delectable perfection.
Aniar’s entire dining experience is well-conceived from beginning to end, targeted to those of us who plan travel around food. I was welcomed with my own personal pescatarian menu, which I had coordinated with Aniar in advance. It didn’t take long for Aniar to completely win over my heart with my own personal Bento Box of a trio of housemade Irish bread and butter.
Each Aniar dish is a gastronomic, yet approachable, piece of art that is a journey across local and foraged ingredients.
As my 3-hour wine pairing adventure progressed, I was already regretting that I had not opted for the 10-course “Prestige” Tasting Menu. Sealing the deal on a memorable Aniar experience, my host sent me off with parting mementos including my own set of Aniar’s Irish bread recipes.
America Village Apothecary & Tasting Room
One of the coolest places that I hit in the Westend was America Village Apothecary for cocktails. The changing cocktail menu is conceived of seasonal ingredients designed around its line of artisan tinctures, bitters, and syrups created from herbs and roots foraged in the Connemara. The Tasting Room has a hip-austere pop-up vibe.
The hospitable bartender passionately informed me on America Village’s sourcing to aid my difficult choice from the compelling drink list. The specialness of America Village Apothecary is its concept of low-key hospitable nightlife meets mixology meets unique Connemara ingredients.
The apothecary aspect of the tasting room allows you to purchase these magical elixirs. I love bringing home unique artisan finds and to share them as gifts. America Village’s potions are like bringing home a piece of Ireland. I procured a few Bog Myrtle and Wild Rose tinctures, and I’ve already used them to ratchet-up flavors in cocktails, ice cream, baking, and sauces.
America Village Apothecary is examplary of what I love about the Ireland food scene – it is inventive and uniquely about “place.”
As I continued wandering and exploring Galway’s Westend, I was completely sucked into its expressive personality.
Irish Craft Beer
My Westend bar adventures continued as I went on a hunt for local craft beer. I’ve always been more of a wine drinker, so I’ve never been compelled by the Guinness cult. But I’ve become completely enamored of craft beer, as it reflects a sense of place for me the way that wine does. I checked out a couple of cool spots in the Westend including The Universal and the Bierhaus.
I completely fell in love with this Little Fawn Session IPA from The White Hag, a craft brewer out of County Sligo.
The Secret Garden – Coffee / Tea House
Sometimes when I’m traveling, though, I just want to chill in a laid-back coffeehouse and read a book or upload my adventures to Instagram. The Secret Garden is that perfect spot.
When I entered the Secret Garden, I was set on a cup of coffee. But as I ordered at the counter, I was confronted by a swarm of giant transparent jars of lose tea with their fragrance spilling over.
Okay, so I’m a sucker for a great cup of Earl Grey in an elegant vintage teacup.
This slice of Lemon Polenta Cake was the perfect accompaniment to my tea. The Secret Garden’s shabby chic sitting room made me long to curl up in a cozy chair and lounge there all afternoon.
The Secret Garden’s al fresco back patio is an equally compelling draw.
A taxi driver taking me to Salthill confided that public houses are facing direct competition these days with the rising popularity of coffeehouses – especially with young people. Ah – a universal trend.
Kai Cafe + Restaurant
Before I headed out of town, I had one more pilgrimage. One of my favorite eating establishments in Ireland is the Westend’s Kai Cafe + Restaurant. Oozing with ambience, Kai’s delicious food is just the proverbial icing on the cake to the overall experience of this lovely space. Kai is well-designed from its cozy interior architecture to its conceptual approach to all-day dining.
Kai goes from morning coffee with house-baked goods piled high on the counter to a changing chalkboard lunch menu to seasonal a dinner menu. On recent visits I hadn’t made it to dinner, so this time I planned well in advance with a reservation.
The warm and cozy elegance of the dining room makes me want to sink-in and never leave. I settled in for a leisurely meal commencing with Kai’s fantastic brown bread and a Black Pepper Gin Cocktail. I next moved on to a starter of Charred Cabbage, Hazelnuts, and Irish Creeney Cheese. My main dish was a Monkfish in Brown Butter Cauliflower and – of course – a side of Mashed Potatoes.
Explore Galway’s Westend
While Galway’s city center of Quay Street and the Latin Quarter are vibrant and quintessentially Galway, I love the Westend’s local neighborhood feel and its fantastic Irish food scene. I spent a week in Galway and still wasn’t able to fit in all of the Westend’s great food and nightlife options.
Below is a map of places in Galway’s Westend to check out. Also consider using as a resource Galway’s Westend’s website and Instagram.
