Greenes Restaurant – Dramatic & Inventive

I arrived at the Hotel Isaacs in Cork City and immediately made a reservation at their downstairs restaurant Greenes. Greenes came highly recommended as creative modern Irish cuisine, with a focus on seafood. Having Greenes just downstairs was a big plus, and it seemed like the perfect first night-in-Cork dining experience. After a day of wandering through the Cork city center, I returned to the hotel for an 8:30 reservation, ready for a relaxing Sunday night dinner.

The Isaacs sits in a narrow cobblestone alley and Greenes sits at the far end of the cul-de-sac with its waterfall tumbling down the hillside on its outdoor terrace. It was mid-October and by 8:30 it was dark in the alley and the waterfall was dramatically blue-lit and atmospheric, setting expectations for a fine dinner.

Greenes’ dinner the service was attentive, knowledgeable, and extremely friendly with the waitress describing dishes and making recommendations, and even offered me the 4-course pre-theatre deal for 28 euros, even at a late hour.

As I perused the menu, deciding that two menu options would suffice tonight, I sipped a glass of wine and noshed  on brown bread (to which I was now addicted), while I waited for my first course to arrive.

First up, a palate-cleansing amuse bouche appeared in a small jar filled with a refreshing, whipped “sweetart” pear foam, hiding a goat cheese walnut ball surprise at the bottom.

My starter of cured local salmon paired with a canelle of chopped salmon tartare and surrounded by dabs of zingy lemon cream and gelee was soon placed before me. It was beautiful. An abstract piece of art in pastels. I’m not one normally to be sucked in by artsy plating compositions, and usually find rustic-style dishes more appealing.

But this lovely Greenes’ dish was not remotely pretentious. The pure salmon flavors set off by bright lemon in various textures was delicious. This was an exciting dish that elevated my expectations for the rest of the meal.

My main dish was a little adventurous for me. I’m usually ambivalent about seaweed, but I had noticed that it was quite a specialty on the isle – so when in Ireland… I bravely chose the Cod Roti, another creatively conceived fish dish.

The local roasted cod was wrapped in seaweed a set in  a foamy broth. The fish came glistening to the table atop kale and a smoky rice cake, soaking up that umami broth. The cod was tender and tasty and not remotely overpowered by the seaweed.

At the end of my 5-day stay in Cork City, I needed another Greenes fix. I set myself in the cozy lounge area of the restaurant and started with a delicious plate of Irish Cheeses.

I was compelled to eat as much local Irish cheese as possible on this trip. The delicious Cheese Board was comprised of Cashel Blue from Tipperary, Adrahan semi-soft from Kanturk, County Cork, and a Knockanore cheddar style from County Waterford.

Although I think I was most impressed with the enormous thin and crunch round brown crackers that came with the cheese. They might be the best crackers I’ve ever had.

The next dish, though technically an appetizer, was the perfect main dish. I can never resist Scallops, and these Pan-Fried Casteltownebere Scallops were sweet and perfectly cooked. Artistically arranged, the Scallops sat on a bed of cauliflower puree with matchsticks of Granny Smith Apples. This dish was memorable.

It became a ritual to end my evening in the lounge, sinking into a cushy sofa and finishing with a pot of tea, local craft beer, or a glass of wine.

I like that Greene’s has a particular focus on modern Irish food using local produce. The food was not only delicious, but was always delivered as a piece of art. Greene’s has great service in a pleasant setting. It is one of the places that will lure me back to Cork City.