Ballymaloe House – Foodiness at a Country Manor

Getting down to Ballymaloe House from Dublin was as easy as I had hoped it would be, considering I was not driving and it is out in the countryside of East County Cork. I changed trains in Cork City and then caught the 20 minute commuter train to Midleton. Midleton station is small and unmanned – and no taxi queue. I knew this might be the case, so I just googled East Cork Cabs and my ride was there in less than 10 minutes to pick me up.

 

Ballymaloe is probably only about a 15 minute ride with no traffic. However, traffic in Midleton – though a small town – is fairly dense with little traffic regulation at the roundabout just beyond the station. Once out of town though the drive is lovely and scenery gorgeous with lots of small winding treelined roads.

 

Ballymaloe House sits down a long private road, passing sweeping front grounds dotted with modern sculpture. It is renowned for the reputation of its Irish chef proprieters Darina and Rachel Allen and their Cookery School. The Ballymaloe staff was at once welcoming, gracious, and efficient in getting me quickly checked into my charming spacious room with garden view.

 

Lunch at Ballymaloe House

First up was lunch in Ballymaloe’s country chic dining room.

 

I opted for the vegetarian dish of Lentil Mushroom stew over basmati rice with papadum and the tomato yoghurt soup starter that was the perfect accompaniment with the spicy stew.

 

The side of simply prepared organic carrots was to die for, they were so fresh. And since I wasn’t going anywhere, I rounded it off with a nice glass of Cotes du Rhone.

The Ballymaloe Gardens

I had been worried about being bored in the country after fast-paced Dublin, but Ballymaloe has a way of slowing your pace nicely.

 

 After lunch I went for a leisurely walk around their vegetable gardens.

 

As it began to rain I headed inside to the drawing room to warm up by the roaring fire. The rain was intense and it produced a leak in the ceiling of my room. It’s a lovely old country home and so this happenstance just comes with its charms. The staff acted quickly to resolve the problem and kindly compensated me for any inconvenience. The staff is so professional and hospitable and were grace under pressure with just one more issue on top of a wedding they were hosting that weekend.

Afternoon Tea at Ballymaloe

No matter – it was time for afternoon tea.

 

I grabbed my book and headed for the more cozy sitting room that overlooks the house’s airy solarium. The staff seemed to be bustling about but always aware of their guests and ready to get you a glass of wine – or in my case pot of tea with lovely oatmeal shortbread cookies. They also have cake lying about for guests to slice at will. I sat and read for a couple of hours and then went to get ready for Ballymaloe’s infamous Fish Fridays dinner.

Dinner at Ballymaloe House

Returning for dinner, they first had me relax with a glass of wine in the sitting room and peruse the dinner menu while sinking into one of the comfy couches. They came to take my order for the multi-course meal – very civilized to have that all taken care of before you even enter the dining room. They then escorted me to my table in the candlelit dining room.

 

For the first course I went into a separate room where a large hors d’oeuvres table was filled with all kinds of fish dishes and salads – at least twenty. My appetizer course of mushroom bisque was served at the table, followed by the main dish of locally sourced Roasted Hake with Chanterelles, Barlotti Beans, Spinach and Mashed Potatoes.

 

After a small break to catch my breath, they brought the cheese cart to my table and described each of the Irish cheese options – of course I had one of each…it’s educational. However, when the dessert cart came around I only had room for a lovely, light meringue tart with juicy raspberries right from the garden.

 

Retiring to my room, the leak had stopped and I had a restful night. Good thing as I needed to be up at 6:30am for bread baking at 7:00.

Baking Bread in the Ballymaloe Kitchen

This was one of the most fun things that I did on my trip, baking bread with Anna in the kitchen who showed me how she weighed out the ingredients and all the varieties of breads that she had to make for the day.

 

I observed while she made scones, soda breads, and yeast breads. I helped to weigh and add ingredients and then got to make my own brown soda bread round – which you can take with you.

 

Since brown bread has become one of my favorite things in Ireland, learning this technique will be one of the best things I bring home, since brown bread has been a part of nearly every meal for the past three weeks.

Breakfast at Ballymaloe House

Before leaving early that morning for my class at the Ballymaloe Cookery School a couple of miles away, I had one of the best breakfasts of my trip.

 

The buffet portion would certainly have been enough, but they also offer an amazing hot course that is included with your room. The buffet had youghurt, museli, labneh, fruit, toast, the scones and brown bread made that morning – and who knew porridge could be that delicious. Next I ordered the pan-fried hake that came from the local market that morning, with tomatoes and mushrooms. Amazing.

 

There’s no hype with the Ballymaloe House. The food is delicious and they are the epitome of hospitality and professionalism. If I had it to do over I would have booked two nights at Ballymaloe just to truly enjoy the house and grounds. I’m already thinking about my next stay there.