I’ve been interested for a while now to check out up-and-coming Livermore Wine Country, just east of San Francisco. These days, where isn’t there wine country in California? Even though it’s not far from my Oakland digs, Livermore has been elusive since I’m car-free. So, when some friends invited me along one Sunday afternoon on an impromptu Livermore adventure, I jumped at the chance to tag along.
Admittedly, I’m more of a European wine fan – terroir focus and good value options. I’ve always been repelled by the oaky and the buttery in many California wines. But I’ve recently been trying to give California wines more of a shot, as I’ve had some good recent experiences with California wine …actually tasting of grapes. In particular, I’ve had some interesting local wines via the new trend of featured wines on-tap. So I’ve decided be a little open-minded and let California wine vie for my wine-drinking attention.
Downtown Livermore
A quick 40-minutes down highway 580 from Oakland and we found ourselves in wide open space and rolling muted green hills. Our first stop was First Street in downtown Livermore for a quick lunch. Livermore is definitely a throwback with vintage storefronts, and feels like stepping back into small-town nineteen-sixties. It’s great when towns keep their original vibe. However, while Livermore may be up-and-coming on the wine scene, the food scene doesn’t seem to be keeping pace. What an opportunity for some up and coming talented chefs to initiate a Livermore food movement.
A quick gourmet meal of veggie burger and onion rings later and we were on the road to seek out some interesting Livermore wines. We had come with no plan except to skip the larger wineries like Wente and Concannon, this time out. We had asked our server at the First Street Ale House what she would recommend. As a homegrown Livermorian, she was passionate about a couple of her favorite small local vineyards, and she happily shared. We left the town center heading to our first destination, driving down the narrow but wide open rolling hill of Greenville Road that stretched into the horizon. There was hardly another car in sight. The white rawhat she would recommend. As a homegrown Livermorian, she was passionate about a couple of her favorite small local vineyards, and she happily shared. We left the town center heading to our first destination, driving down the narrow but wide open rolling hill of Greenville Road that stretched into the horizon. There was hardly another car in sight. The white nch fences that line the country roads seem to be a Livermore signature.
McGrail Vineyards
We arrived at our first recommended destination of McGrail Vineyards in about 10 minutes, pulling up to a charming tasting room set against vineyards with expansive views over the valley. Five of us bellied up to the wine tasting bar and opted for their basic $10 tasting. We started with Chardonnay and Sauvignon Blanc and then moved into Cabernet. Between tastes we explored the outside, where the tasting room has a comfy shaded patio.
This was a fun and interesting place to visit, with friendly hosts. And they kindly recommended that we check out their neighbor, 3 Steves.
3 Steves
3 Steves is a particularly low-key vineyard, with an austere tasting room behind its front house. Their wine bottle explains that they were three friends named Steve who had invested in another winery and then decided to make wine themselves. This was my favorite stop of the day. Another $10 tasting, this one starting with sparkling wine. The servers were particularly knowledgeable and informative about their wine – and all the wine was interesting and delicious. We relaxed at casual tables on their front patio between tastes, savoring the wine in the arid wine country hills of Livermore.
Another interesting dimension to 3 Steves is that they are also making wine in the southern hemisphere season to pad their wine inventory year-round, and so also have some Chilean options on their wine list. Surprisingly for me, my favorite wine of the day was the 3 Steve’s Brut Sparkling Wine. I think I was struck by its pinot noir grapes that gave it a little weight – and you can see a tinge of pink in the glass. There was no way that I was leaving Livermore without that wine. And bonus, they credited my wine tasting fee to my purchase. Their ruby-looking tawny port was excellent – and I’m kind of regretting I left that one behind. Apparently, the winery is the only place to purchase 3 Steves’ wine. Just another reason to come back to Livermore.
Murrieta’s Well
Our last stop of the day was Murrieta’s Well, on the way back toward town. Its tasting room was probably the loveliest of the Livermore settings that day. Exiting our cars past an appealing front patio, we ascended the colorful tiled steps and headed to the back where the tasting room’s entrance is located. Murrieta’s Well uses its lovely setting to optimal advantage with pleasant seating dotted all around its attractive vineyard. This place was clearly more sophisticated in its picturesque setting and marketing, with its ambient tasting room centered amongst merchandising opportunities. Not surprising then, it turns out that Murrieta’s Well is a Wente winery. This is the first winery I’ve ever been to, where the server comes to your table with your tastings – a nice touch. Murrieta’s Well has two tasting options, one basic – one reserve, and we shared to get the full experience. Between tastes we ventured out to the little balcony that looks out over a yard with more tables under trees, strung with lights.
Between lunch and 3 winery visits, we had managed to while away the entire afternoon in Livermore. I especially enjoyed the wine at the more casual wineries that felt like real finds. Given that the larger wine country regions of Napa and Sonoma have set the standard of wine and food going hand-in-hand, food culture in Livermore does have a ways to go… and a real opportunity for some upstart chefs. I’m looking forward to returning to Livermore to explore its vast wine country offerings – although next time I may be accompanied by my own personal food basket.
