Dublin is a lively, cosmopolitan, and walkable city steeped in history. If you’re an urbanite who likes great food, music, theater, and architecture, then Dublin should be on your European travel checklist. While Temple Bar, Trinity College, and O’Connell Street can be overwhelmed by rowdy tourists, these spots are iconic for a reason. Visit them strategically and then you need only get a couple blocks off-the-beaten-path and you’ll find a vibrant and interesting local urban scene. The treeless Dublin cityscape can feel cold and austere, but it is warmed but its friendly citizens. Just stand on the River Liffey’s edge at sunset and see the sharp edges melt into haunting beauty as you gaze over the river’s endless bridges. If you’re longing for some city greenery, you can always head to one of Dublin’s stunning parks – where they keep all the trees. Immerse into Dublin neighborhoods with theater, history, architecture tour and amazing food, and you will be addicted.
Jump to Neighborhood
Ballsbridge – Cultural District – Grafton / Exchequer – Grand Dock – North of Liffey –
The Liberties – Museum – Portobello – Smithfield – Stoneybatter – Temple Bar – Trinity College
♥ = Love
Resources & Tips…
Getting Around…
- Invest in a Leap Card: Load online and use around Dublin region and other Irish cities.
Food & Drink…
I feel compelled to make a general statement about Irish food, because it seems to still have a reputation for having boring food, when nothing could be further from the truth. As a matter-of-fact, Ireland in general has a vibrant, inventive food scene – more so than some other European countries that are renowned for their food. Modern Irish cuisine, gastro pubs, an abundance of fresh fish and produce, and fine dining describe the modern Irish food scene. The local craft beer scent is certainly giving Guinness a run for its money. And though Ireland isn’t renowned for its vineyards (hello, climate change), it has a bounty of fabulous wine bars. Luckily for me, Ireland is not only vegetarian/pescatarian-friendly, but with interesting foodie options. Some favorite food and drink adventures are described below by neighborhood.
Fave Traditional Irish Fare: Champ – Boxty – Brown Bread – Irish Butter – Irish Cheese
Food Resources:
See my Dublin post: 20 New Faves Across Dublin’s Eclectic Neighborhoods
♥All the Food: Great Dublin-focused food scene site ranging from casual to fine dining. Editors are passionate about food, without underlying promotion that would make reviews suspect. Compelling articles and food photos that help you focus your food adventure
♥McKenna Guides. While this guide covers all of Ireland, it has a good Dublin section. The site is organized in a clean, concise, and modern fashion that provides restaurant and lodging reviews as well as features on food entrepreneurs across the country in this cutting-edge food scene. The guide covers the spectrum from casual to fine dining.
Jump to Restaurants and Bars by Neighborhood
Ballsbridge – Cultural District – Grafton / Exchequer – Grand Dock – North of Liffey –
The Liberties – Museum – Portobello – Smithfield – Stoneybatter – Temple Bar – Trinity College
Ballsbridge
Ballsbridge is a neighborhood just outside Dublin’s city center.
♥The Chop House. As its name implies, beef is a clear specialty at Chop House, but the menu is very broad with fish and veggie options. Chop House serves inventive, delicious, and stunningly visual dishes. But this is no stuffy restaurant. As a matter-of-fact, it feels more like it used to be a house. There is a nice large bar in back where you can wait for your table or grab a drink and a small plate. The service is friendly and impeccable. Worth jumping in a cab to venture 10 minutes out of the city center. See my post on The Chop House.
Cultural District
For the purpose of my notes, I consider the Cultural District west of Temple Bar to around Christ Church, in order to be distinct from Temple Bar center – although the edges are more blurred and merges into Temple Bar.
Near or On Cow’s Lane…
Piglet. What draws me to this cool Euro wine bar is the ambience. The food is fairly bistro-classic (with minimal vegetarian options) – and the by-the-glass wine options solid. But sitting inside at the bar listening to its cool soundtrack or outside on the sidewalk terrace is just urban perfection.
Queen of Tarts. This cozy, country-quaint cafe in the heart of this urban arts district is quintessentially Dublin, as one of my first Dublin visits. The Queen features truly irritable pastries and light savory fare. It’s a great go-to spot for afternoon tea or glass of wine when it’s more calm than its hugely popular brunch. The Queen also has a pleasant front patio for watching the world go by on pedestrian Cows Lane. See my Queen of Tarts post.
Grafton – Creative Quarter
The several square blocks bordered by Dame Street, St. Stephens Green park, South Great George’s and Merrion Square – with Grafton St. in between – are chock full of cute shops, compelling bars, and both casual and fancy eateries. Even though Trinity College is nearby, with the exception of Grafton Street, this area doesn’t feel touristy – locals definitely go about their everyday lives here. These are just a sampling of some of my favorites.
Around Grafton Street…
This pedestrian shopping street is claustrophobic with tourists and locals alike. I usually like to skirt this street quickly except for…
Sheridans Cheesemongers. Who doesn’t like to peruse a great cheese shop, and even better take something away. Given that there are a couple of great parks close by, there’s no excuse not to take something away. Sheridans is one of the best cheesemongers in Ireland, with shops also in Galway and County Meath. An added bonus, it’s an opportunity to walk down the small and lovely South Anne Street with the beautiful St. Ann’s Church looming dramatically at the end of the street.
Merrion Square Near Stephen’s Green…
Ely Wine Bar. The original Ely outpost has a cozy wine cave vibe and serves bistro style food, with bar snacks for grazing. More casual than its dock-situated sister, this spot has a buzzy, friendly energy. Ely also puts on special Wine Tasting events.
Creative Quarter (Exchequer- Stephen St. Lower / S. Great George’s-William St.)…
♥Fallon & Byrne Wine Bar. Head into the grocery and follow the stairs down to the spacious cellar – how appropriate! The walls are lined with tons of great takeaway options. But I really enjoyed lingering over a creative open-faced sandwich or a snack of the best chips while reading or surfing on their free wifi. Extensive and solid wine list – even by the glass. The setting is comfortable and buzzy. There’s a reason this place is popular. It’s a perfect place to pop in and catch your breath.
The Green Hen. I have mixed feelings about The Green Hen. On the one hand, it is a pleasant ambient space with good bistro food – on the other hand service can be mixed, and I’ve had some aloof service, which can be a bit jarring in friendly Dublin. I’ve also had some perfectly pleasant service. If this possibility doesn’t faze you, give The Hen a whirl. Another plus is that it has an appealing, good-sized bar at the entrance where you can grab a beverage or a quick bite.
Loose Canon. The focus here is on natural wine and great cheese options. Part wine tiny merchant and part wine bar, Loose Canon is extremely casual but oh so cool. Order at the counter and hope to grab one of the standing-only window counters. Great for people-watching on the street or off the vintage George’s Street Arcade. Nice option for a little break or a nosh before theatre when you plan to eat after.
Murphy’s Ice Cream. My favorite Ireland ice cream… so far. Straight outta Dingle, Murphy’s is both delicious and has interesting flavors. My favorite, hands-down, is Brown Bread. A few other locations around Ireland such as Galway… and Dingle, of course.
P. Macs. If you’ve burned out on Guinness, P. Macs is the perfect spot – in a vibrant quarter – to stake-out a moody candlelit table with some fantastic craft beer options. Friendly, buzzy – and serves food.
Grand Canal and Environs
South of the Grand Canal including Leeson St. area.
Forest Avenue Restaurants. The only of the Forest Avenue that I’ve been to is the now-closed Forest and Marcy. It was such a phenomenal experience of casual-creative dining in a wine bar setting, that I feel comfortable recommending any of their well-regarding on restaurants, such as the flagship Forest Avenue. A little reorg due to Covid has resulted in Forest Avenue Deli & Wine Bar and Little Forest focusing on woodfired oven pizza.
Sea Lettuce, and sprinkled with dried Seaweed.
3fe Coffee Sussex Terrace. 3fe coffee roaster has a number of delicious coffee houses around Dublin. Sussex Terrace is handy if you find yourself by the Canal. This 3fe also has a barista training room. 3fe in photos. Other 3fe outposts include flagship near Grand Canal Street, Five Points, The Triangle, and IFSC. Be sure to take home a bag of beans.
Grand Docks and Environs
3FE Coffee Grand Canal Street. Not the most accessible coffeehouse option on a typical visitor’s path, but if you’re on you’re way to the Docks to peruse stunning modern architecture, it provides a great respite.
Osteria Lucio. I have mixed feelings about this spot. An Italian restaurant situated inside a tunnel under the train track, the cylindrical space is very cool. The first time I stopped here at the end of my Canal Walk, I had a great experience. I had a lovely glass of wine at the bar from an interesting by the glass menu with super friendly service. This experience compelled me to make a dinner reservation – after all, its big sister Chapter One has a Michelin star. Dinner was a debacle. The waiter aloof, the food was uninteresting and over-salted. Not all was lost, the french fries were excellent. Given the cool space, the pedigree, and my initial experience, I will give Osteria Lucio another shot, if I find myself in the Docks area. But I will take my cure from the couple I sat next to at dinner who were clearly regulars and ordered a wood-fired oven pizza and a bottle of wine. Lucio also has a lovely outdoor patio seating in front.
The Liberties
Near St. Patrick’s…
♥The Fumbally: This casual coffeehouse – cafe serves seasonal dishes in a hip industrial space that makes you want to linger all day in a comfy chair and read a book. The Fumbally has a changing chalkboard, along with some regular items. Only open till 5pm each day, The Fumbally serves breakfast, lunch, and is a great stop for afternoon tea and a decadent dessert. The food is fantastic and worth the trip to chill for a couple of hours. See my post on The Fumbally.
North of the Liffey
Near Ha’ Penny Bridge…
The Winding Stair. A sandwich board outside, along the River Liffey, lets you know you’re in the right place. Enter the narrow doorway and follow the winding stair to the top. Pushing open the door at the top of the stair, you’ll find yourself in an airy, Shaker-style dining room with hardwood floors and chalkboard menus. The Winding Stair has a casual, modern vibe with refined and tasty comfort food with pristine service and semi-views over the Liffey. I also thought that The Winding Stair had one of the better wine lists I had come across in Dublin. See my post on The Winding Stair.
♥The Woollen Mills. Sister restaurant to The Winding Stair, The Woollen Mills was a new find in fall 2015 and quickly became one of my new favorite spots to grab a meal any time of day. The Woollen Mills is slightly more casual than The Winding Stair, with excellent and inventive comfort food. My favorite meal was probably breakfast. A bonus is that The Woollen Mills has a delicious bakery for eating in or takeaway. Conveniently located just the other side of the Ha’ Penny Bridge from Temple Bar.
Favorites: Yoghurt Pot with Berry Compote & Housemade Granola; Smoked Hake & Potato Croquettes with Sweet & Sour Red Peppers, Kalamatas, Rocket & Saffron.
Brother Hubbard North. The most central – not to miss – Brother Hubbard location. A few years ago, this phenomenal breakfast spot expanded to seat an enormous amount of customers to better align with its popularity – so it’s easier to get a table. It lost some of its charm and ambience in the transformation, but it has the same fantastic food. If you want charm + great food, head to Brother Hubbard’s Portobello outpost near the Canal. You’ll get cozy ambience in a less touristed area, but a greater likelihood of a wait. Two other locations in Arnott’s Department Store and Ranelagh.
Near the Customs House…
Ely Bar & Grill. (Appears to be at least temporarily closed since the pandemic – and hopefully will reopen.) Housed in a 17th century converted wine warehouse, Ely is a cozy spot situated on the North Dock serving delicious upscale food and focusing on wine. Sophisticated decor in the downstairs stone wine cave makes for dramatic ambiance.
Near or on O’Connell Street…
Near the Gate Theater…
Portobello
♥Brother Hubbard. Brother Hubbard converted Sister Sadie to its Portobello outpost a while back now. It has the same fabulous food as its flagship on the northside, but in a more charming and intimate setting near the Canal. Serves heartwarming creative breakfast with a middle eastern flare. Wifi and plenty of electrical outlets. A great way to see a non-touristy neighborhood and take in a few carbs before the hour+ walk along the Grand Canal.
Favorites: Beans on Toast; Yoghurt with Berries & Housemade Granola.
The Morning. Excellent artisan coffee spot, replacing Reference Coffee. (formerly, Reference Coffee)
Table Wine. Same owners or previous Meet Me in the Morning in this same space now transitioned to a European style wine bar featuring natural wine and small seasonal plates utilizing local produce. Best to reserve. (formerly, Meet Me in the Morning)
Pickle. Excellent North Indian cuisine restaurant worth going out of the way for.
Delahunt + Sitting Room. Upscale dining in vintage ambience with cozy upstairs sitting room cocktail bar.
Bastible. Modern, creative, and utterly delicious dining. Reserve in advance. Also has a more casual wine bar with small plates across the street. Or check out their nearby sister Clanbrassil House. Former head chef Gráinne O’Keefe heft to open her own prix fixe restaurant Mae in Ballsbridge, which is probably worth a look.
Smithfield
Smithfield is a gentrified Dublin neighborhood that used to be a stockyard and contains some interesting architecture and public art. See my post on Smithfield.
The Fish Shop. Modern and austere hole-in-the wall with small but pristine fish and seafood options elevated by excellent by-the-glass wine list. Think: filet-o-fish w/ a crisp Muscadet. Or a lovely plate of Oysters. Casual, buzzy vibe.
Proper Order Coffee. Delicious coffee and friendly service – a charming spot for little respite and re-charge in the heart of Smithfield.
♥The Cobblestone. Recently saved due to local outrage that hotel developers would eradicate what has become Dublin cultural heritage venue. The Cobblestone thankfully lives on. This tightly packed pub, is worth squeezing in for friendly atmosphere and great music with a decidedly more local vibe for Trad music compare with the Temple Bar scene. The pub’s motto says it all – the Cobblestone is a “drinking pub with a music problem.” Musicians squeeze into a front corner of the long narrow room that is mostly taken up by the bar. On a Saturday night, the place was packed and buzzing with friendly locals. Bar service is friendly and efficient. The music was a little hit & miss the night we visited, and one local explained that the music is a more consistent on a weeknight when regular musicians are scheduled to play. The Cobblestone is a quick 5 minute walk across the Smithfield Square to the Luas train, and a number of taxis wait right outside at the Cobblestone’s side entrance at the end of the evening. Visiting the Cobblestone is also an opportunity to get out of Dublin center to check out different neighborhoods – such as dinner in Smithfield or Stoneybatter first and ending the evening at the Cobblestone.
Stoneybatter
♥L. Mulligan. This lively gastro pub serves delicious, inventive comfort food. It’s a little off-the-beaten path from the Dublin center, but not more than a 10-minute taxi ride. L. Mulligan thinks about the little details from its menu arranged in vintage books to plating to reserved tables noted via Scrabble letters to the cute gummies that accompany your bill. I adored my veggie burger that came with a bun made of boxty on the bottom and a fried Portobello as top bun. L. Mulligan is large inside with a vibrant din in the front and quieter, charming backroom. Though the place is large, it’s popular – so safer to reserve in advance. L.Mulligan also serves brunch. But also to pop by for a great craft beer on tap and enjoy in its front cozy and charming bar. See my post on L. Mulligan.
Temple Bar to Trinity
Quiet by day and off-the-hook at night, especially on the weekend, Temple Bar is a Dublin classic. As rowdy as it gets, the bars do attract some great musicians, and that alone can be worth braving the throng. My strategy is to wander through and see what music pulls me into the bar. When a pub is packed, it can be difficult to even grab a beer. Just listen to some music and cruise to the next place.
The Heart of Temple Bar…
Klaw. While I typically make an effort to avoid Temple Bar center, I make a beeline here for Klaw. This hole-in-the-wall is rightfully popular and is so tiny that there is typically a line to get in. I like to be strategic and plan my visit at off-beat hours. It’s perfect mid-afternoon stop to take the edge off pre-theatre. It’s big sister, the Seafood Cafe is nearby and takes reservations.
Gallagher’s Boxty House. Right on the main drag, Boxty serves modern and tasty comfort food and tasty craft beer. Anyplace that features “boxty” in its name, already has my heart. Boxty’s modern and cozy interior is a pleasant Dublin respite in the heart of rowdy Temple Bar. See my post on Boxty.
Gallagher’s Boxty House. Right on the main drag, Boxty serves modern and tasty comfort food and tasty craft beer. Anyplace that features “boxty” in its name, already has my heart. Boxty’s modern and cozy interior is a pleasant Dublin respite in the heart of rowdy Temple Bar. See my post on Boxty.
Elephant & Castle. I like this as an escape from the Temple Bar madness when I’m not looking for a and just want to grab a decent bite and a beer in the city center. Elephant Castle is a casual Dublin spot with unpretentious food and really friendly service.
Oliver St John Gogarty. One of the more reliable and pleasant spots to listen to music, Gogarty’s is large and has a range of seating, including outdoor tables where the music is piped. The live music is downstairs, but there is a quieter upstairs area with a video feed of the music, if you just need to get out of the deafening fray.
Near or On Meeting House Square…
♥Temple Bar Food Market. Whenever I’m in Dublin on a Saturday, I like to pass through and grab a Potato Cake and peruse. Though a little more touristed than when I first visited, the smallish market is still charming and hosts food stalls with artisan foods and local farmers. Food stalls are piled high with gorgeous pastries, cheese, and produce. I can never walk away without getting a delicious, crispy potato cake that is heated to order. See my post on Meeting House Square.
♥Cleaver East. I’ve had some excellent meals in this trendy Dublin restaurant based in the Clarence Hotel that features inventive and tasty dishes, artfully served. I appreciated their early-on small plate approach more, but Cleaver East has been a good go-to option, given I stay in this area. Great low-lit ambience in a modern, industrial setting. Friendly service. Also has a large bar in center of room for grabbing a casual drink and small plate. The menu remains interesting and a handy option for a Sunday night or late dining. See my post on Cleaver East.
Octagon Bar. Spacious bar in the Clarence hotel. An actual octagon-shaped bar serves as naming inspiration. The cool industrial space with its large metal windows is warmed up by lots of exposed brick, warm lighting, and library style setting with comfy lounging areas.
Dame Street…
Trinity College
The Bank Restaurant. So you’re dodging the phalanx of tour buses surrounding Trinity College and you just want to escape. Duck in to The Bank, right on Dublin’s main drag of College Green you’ll find a wonderful respite from the tourist madness. Quick. Duck into The Bank. You’ll be rewarded by a magnificent, high-ceilinged space with a huge bar and loungey seating. You can grab a meal or just a beverage. Sit at the massive bar or lounge in one of the cushy chairs. The food is pretty tasty.
Dublin Map of Where to Eat & Drink
