Spoiler Alert – I loved Cork City. It was urban, but down to earth. Sophisticated, but unpretentious. Cork felt European with a tinge of edginess – and, in a way, a little reminiscent of my hometown Boston.
Falling in Love with Cork City on Day One
Arrival into Cork City’s small Kent train station was easy. Exiting the station I felt a bit of an industrial vibe, but as you get closer into the city that changes.
It was a 10-minute brisk walk to the hotel dragging my suitcase. Without knowing anything about Cork City, I had chosen the Hotel Isaacs for its good reviews, location to the train and bus stations, proximity to the city center, and great rates.
I was immediately pleased with my hotel – very cute and friendly staff. The Isaacs’ Hotel rooms are basic, but the hotel lobby is couchy and comfortable with its cozy area cozy featuring toasty fireplace.
A big bonus is that the delectable Greenes Restaurant is just downstairs, replete with lovely patio dining featuring its very own waterfall that tumbles down the hillside into the hotel’s blue-lit courtyard.
MacCurtain Street
I also found that MacCurtain St. has pubs with great music, theatre, and good cafes.
Market Lane
I arrived on a Sunday and was craving lunch – the hotel recommended Market Lane. I had a number of restaurants on my Cork City must-try list, but today I just wanted something casual with decent food where I could laze over my book and click into wifi.
I walked two blocks from my hotel and crossed the River Lee into a bustling city center. Friends and families filled the several square blocks of Cork City’s city center that sits on a peninsula jutting into the River Lee.
Bridges line the river on both sides of the peninsula for easy access, giving the city a bit of feeling that you are crossing the Seine into Ile St. Louis.
As I walked they city, I could see Cork’s department stores, boutiques, cafes, and pubs were all situated into one convenient and walkable peninsula.
After a few twists and turns of Cork’s angled streets and a couple checks of the map, I found Market Lane.
The restaurant was even better than I’d hoped — a buzzy bistro with friendly service and tasty food.
I embedded myself there for a couple of hours where I began to soak in Cork City.
After lunch I set out to explore the city and just wander the streets aimlessly to see where they would take me. Cork City’s center is compact and it didn’t take me long to become familiar with how to get around the city – it was easy to cross the center from river to river in 15 minute brisk walk. This was a great start to Cork.
The Cork City Arts Scene
Cork City has a small but appealing arts scene including its theatres, music, art museum, festivals, and minimal but striking street art.
Crawford Art Museum
The Crawford Art Museum is small but charming and has an excellent collection of Irish art ranging over a wide period of history up through modern art.
Cork Indie Fest
My wandering brought me to the Gate Movie Theater where I saw that the week of the Cork Indie fest for film and music had just begun. It was perfect timing and I really enjoyed this low-key festival that feature indie film and music from across the world.
Music
I grabbed a guide to determine which performances to attend. Heading back to the hotel, I ran into a couple of young kids busking. I didn’t see as much busking as in Dublin – but saw these kids, Ten Strings & A Box – a couple of times and they were great.
I loved the Triskel Art Center tucked into a small alley which looks like a fantastic venue for off-beat music and film — set in a former church venue with audience seating in pews.
I visited a great art exhibit there and took a break in their cool coffee house next door. I would love to have seen a performance at Triskel. Next time.
Street Art
Hometown boy Fin DAC is prominently featured on the Kino Theatre with his piece Jackie Oh!!!
But there is lots of other great street art in Cork.
Beautiful Churches in Cork City
Cork City is also packed with beautiful Georgian and Victorian architecture as well as several beautiful churches, especially the stunning St Finn Barre – after Cork’s patron saint.
And the lovely Peter & Paul’s cathedral squished into a tiny alley in the city center.
And the iconic St. Anne church with its famous Shandon Bells.
Food in Cork City
I also filled my days in Cork City seeking out some food.
Fenns Quay
I hit Fenns Quay one night after Indie Cork. Fenns Quay takes a tasty and creative spin on classic and seasonal bistro fare.
Iyer’s
Iyer’s is a casual and inexpensive Indian restaurant that overlooks Popes Quay on the River Lee. The interior is modern, spare, and compact. I ordered at the counter and then found a perch in a window seat, and awaited my food.
My Samosas and Vegetable Crepes arrived quickly, colorful and delicious with their vibrant and spicy sauces.
Greenes Restaurant
I loved this spot, which was located in my hotel. Greenes Restaurant has delicious modern Irish food with wonderful ambiance overlooking a charming patio waterfall.
Cafe Paradiso
The excellent vegetarian Cafe Paradiso is one of my favorite restaurants anywhere, let alone Ireland. The atmosphere is lovely and the food absolutely creative and delicious. See my full post on Cafe Paradiso.
The English Market
The English Market was one of my favorite places in Cork City. The architecture is stunning and it is packed with amazing food stalls.
A big plus is that you can purchase food in the Market and carry it upstairs to its airy dining area that overlooks the Market atrium. See my full post on the English Market.
Winding Down in Cork City
I loved coming back to the Isaacs’ in the evening grabbing one of Cork City’s many local craft beers and sitting in the lobby working on my computer or reading – visiting with other night owl residents.
By 11pm, the restaurant would be shut down and the front doors locked, but the night porter was always happy to grab me a nightcap.
I spent four great days in Cork City – with a half-day trip to nearby Cobh. While I see many appealing comparisons for Cork to other cities — it is its own unique city. Its tourist vibe is extremely low key and it’s an Irish city where I felt like I could just “be.” Plenty to keep me busy…fantastic music and food scene, and perfect base for day trips with Ireland’s robust bus service.
I’m already pondering my next visiting to Cork City – perhaps for next year’s Jazz Fest. In the meantime, I towed my luggage to the bus station only 5 minutes away on foot, purchased my ticket from the vending machine, and jumped on the bus to make my way to County Clare.
