Motel Ropewalks Night street art Liverpool UK

Traversing Liverpool’s Urban Revival by Neighborhood

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Liverpool’s vibrant neighborhoods inventively leverage its industrial past. Compact and walkable, the best way to get a feel for this reawakened city is to trek across its micro ‘hoods. Liverpool neighborhood are filled with stunning architecture is a mesmerizing contrast of industrial, Victorian-Georgian-Edwardian, and contemporary. Armed with a plan, I managed to pack a lot art, sightseeing, eating, and drinking into two impressive days in Liverpool.

Castle Street Liverpool UK
Castle Street

Despite its modern-day Beatles’ rep, much of Liverpool’s historic notoriety derives from its role as a vital international sea port. As industrial times faded though, so did Liverpool’s sea-faring raison d'être. But like many cities known for their bleak industrial pasts (think Pittsburgh), Liverpool neighborhoods have begun to morph into modern destinations, and making Liverpool a compelling world city.

Liverpool Waterfront UK
Liverpool Waterfront

With its high proportion of museums, galleries, and art festivals Liverpool clearly has set its sights on becoming an arts hotspot.

Mural Street art graffiti Ropewalks street Liverpool UK
Ropewalks by Day

And while Liverpool is only beginning to evolve as a dining scene, a long weekend is easily filled with artisan coffee, craft beer and gin, and delicious ethnic fare. Not to mention many traditional and worthwhile pubs. As a matter-of-fact, each Liverpool neighborhoods has distinctive nightlife that reeks of fun and revelry.

Ropewalks skull mural street art at night Liverpool UK
Ropewalks at Night

These are a few of my favorite Liverpool things to do, by neighborhood...

The Liverpool Waterfront

The Liverpool Waterfront is lined with a wide swath of museums, and its former industrial docks have undoubtedly been transformed into a tourist destination. But go on a quiet weekday, and you will appreciate how the docks' refurbishment embraces its history and stunning architecture. 

Liverpool  Waterfront

Set against an emerging modern skyline, this Liverpool neighborhood contrasts strikingly with its historic architecture. Not surprisingly, the network of preserved docks has attained UNESCO World Heritage status.

Liverpool Waterfront with Tate Liverpool and Dazzle Ferry
Sailing Ship Liverpool Harbor UK
Liverpool Waterfront Modern Architecture UK
Liverpool Waterfront UK

The Tate Liverpool

I had come to the waterfront to visit the Tate Liverpool, an outpost of its London mothership. 

View of the Harbor from the Tate Liverpool Galleries Liverpool UK
View of the Harbor from the Tate's Galleries

The Tate Liverpool is more of a gallery with changing original exhibits and borrowed art from the Tate Modern’s permanent collection. It’s a brilliant use of the dock’s vintage space and sweeping views

Lobby Tate Liverpool UK
Tate Liverpool gallery 2016 Biennial UK
Tate Liverpool UK

Liverpool’s Art District – The Baltic Triangle

As I’ve already gushed in my post “The Baltic Triangle Brings Cool to Liverpool,” the cutting-edge Triangle was probably my favorite Liverpool neighborhood.  Sprouting with street art, cool bars, and conceptual social spaces that blur art-food-music, this ‘hood runs the gamut starting your day with artisan coffee to closing it down with innovative nightlife. All set in a historical setting with breathtaking architecture.

Street art graffiti Baltic Triangle Liverpool UK
street art paste up baltic triangle liverpool skate park cultural quarter UK
Cains Brewery Higson Brewery red brick Architecture baltic triangle liverpool cultural quarter UK
Cains Brewery Facade

The Botanical Garden

In the Baltic Triangle, I found one of my favorite Liverpool spots, the Botanical Garden. This seasonal garden space is whimsical and charming.

entrance to the botanical garden gin bar baltic triangle liverpool UK
Botanical Garden Gin Bar street art paste up baltic triangle liverpool cultural quarter UK
Botanical Garden Gin Bar street art paste up baltic triangle liverpool cultural quarter UK

Historic Micro ‘Hood of Ropewalks

Now filled with galleries, boutiques, and trendy nightlife, this Liverpool neighborhood of Ropewalks is named for 19th century artisan ropes that were laid out to sell to Liverpool’s sailing ships. These long pieces of rope resulted in forming the long narrow streets of Ropewalks today.

Ropewalks Liverpool UK
Ropewalks at Night Liverpool UK

Ropewalks vies with the Baltic Triangle for being Liverpool’s cultural quarter, but with a whole different vibe. This is where you want to go if you’re looking for swarms of people hanging out at late-night clubs and buzzy beer gardens, hidden among narrow brick-laned streets.

Mural of woman Ropewalks Liverpool UK
Mowgli restaurnt Indian Street food Ropewalks Liverpool UK window with wine
Mowgli restaurnt Indian Street food Ropewalks Liverpool UK

Mowgli

I wish I’d had time to hit this upscale Indian street food spot more than once. Mowgli's cozy and exotic setting is as much of a draw as its delicious and inventive tapas. It is super popular, with no reservations, so I had a strategy to hit it as soon as it opened to ensure I would get in during my short stay. I lucked into a great window seat for Ropewalks people-watching.

Interior Mowgli restaurnt Indian Street food Ropewalks Liverpool UK
Mowgli restaurnt Indian Street food Ropewalks Liverpool UK

Grove Beer Tap
and Grill

There are plenty of craft beer spots in Ropewalks, including the vibrant outdoor Kazimier Garden. I also liked the Grove Beer Tap and Grill where you get a great selection of both world and local beers. I tested this tasty local Toxteth IPA.

Toxteth IPA craft beer Grove Beer Tap and Grill Ropewalks Liverpool UK
Interior night Grove Beer Tap and Grill Ropewalks Liverpool UK

Alma de Cuba

My love of architecture drew me to Alma de Cuba for dinner. The converted church space of the upstairs restaurant with its soaring rafters is indeed impressive, although the meal and service were fairly ho-hum. However, I would return here for a drink and live music in the bar, simply for its cool architectural setting in the converted church.

Converted church Alma de Cuba Ropewalks Liverpool UK
Salmon mashed potatoes and peas Alma de Cuba Ropewalks Liverpool UK

From Ropewalks to the Georgian Quarter

As I trekked across Liverpool neighborhoods, I emerged from Ropewalks’ narrow streets and was confronted by the stunning gates to Liverpool’s Chinatown – the oldest Chinatown community in the European region.

Chinatown gates Liverpool UK

From Chinatown, I headed in search of Georgian architecture. I circled up the hill to the stunning 20th century Liverpool Cathedral that looms dramatically over the city. I wended my way to the cathedral through the adjacent St. James' Cemetery, now an urban park that is both eerie and compelling, lined with headstones along the pathway, which were largely removed after tens of thousands of burials that ended in 1936.

Liverpool Cathedral UK
St. James Cemetery urban park Huskisson Memorial Liverpool UK
St. James Cemetery urban park Liverpool UK
Headstones tunnel St James Cemetery Liverpool Cathedral UK

I emerged in the Georgian Quarter to traverse street after street of gorgeous Georgian row houses, reminiscent of London streets. There are also a plenty of opportunities for interesting pubs and food.

Row Houses Georgian Architecture Georgian Quarter Liverpool UK

And whenever I needed a respite from my Liverpool urban hiking, I never had a tough time finding an interesting pit stop for good food and drink. The Georgian Quarter was no exception, especially with all its compelling gastro pubs.

London Carriage Works

But in the end, I settled on the more refined London Carriage Works for a very composed and tasty lunch of soup and salad.

Potato soup vegetarian London Carriage Works dining room day Liverpool UK Georgian Quarter
London Carriage Works dining room day Liverpool UK Georgian Quarter

City Center

Just the other side of Ropewalks, you’ll find Liverpool’s historic district filled with grand architecture and large format galleries. I stayed in a large boutique style hotel that lies between the Waterfront and the historic district. This Liverpool neighborhoods was a perfect spot for a first visit that focused on visiting the Tate, but was an easy and pleasant trek to Ropewalks. Across the street were stunning vintage architecture and the Town Hall plaza.

Town Hall plaza Liverpool UK
Front terrace Inidigo hotel street sunset Liverpool UK

This area also contains the free entry Blue Coat, a contemporary art center housed in a striking vintage building. Also in this area is the more classic Walker Art Gallery which contains a broad range of historic European art.

Lunya

One of my favorite experiences in Liverpool, Lunya is an authentic Catalan restaurant that I wish I were in my own town. Delicious food and friendly service, Lunya also has a pleasant front patio for people watching. Conveniently, it has an attached deli and wine shop next door for interesting takeaway.

Shrimp in Hot Oil and Chili Potato Lunya Catalan Restaraunt Liverpool UK
Empanada deli and Lunya Catalan Restaraunt Liverpool UK
Potato Torta Lunya Catalan Restaraunt Liverpool UK
Lunya front patio Lunya Catalan Restaraunt Liverpool UK

Cavern Quarter

The Beatles’ legacy largely remains in Liverpool in the form of the Beatles' Story exhibition, cab tours, and touristy tribute clubs in the Cavern Quarter. I did my best to avoid this commercialized area blasting Beatles music... but it's hard to avoid traversing between neighborhoods. Also, this district has some of the coolest architecture tucked into a winding warren of narrow streets. This area is also juxtaposed to a huge, vibrant shopping district, if you’re in the so inclined.

Cavern Quarter Liverpool UK

As Liverpool’s renewal evolves, it feels as though the town is still negotiating amongst itself over the names and boundaries of its various neighborhoods. Some sources name quarters more broadly, like the Historic, Cultural, or Knowledge quarters. Names of micro neighborhoods are still emerging. My hotelier, for instance, had never heard of the Ropewalks neighborhood.

Yet this is part of what makes exploring Liverpool neighborhoods so exciting right now, while it is still raw and organic. And it's another good reason to go prepared with some advance Liverpool research.

Plot your itinerary and use the map below to find some cool spots across the myriad Liverpool neighborhoods, no matter which one you're in.

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