Every wine lover passing through Paris should trek to Oberkampf for its vibey wine bar nightlife. Just steps away from the touristy Marais, Oberkampf seems a world away. Essentially a micro ‘hood of the 11th arrondissement, and just above Bastille, Oberkampf feels like you’ve stepped well-off the tourist path. Don’t look for historic sights here. Instead, seek to disappear into a local scene with an abundance of good food and wine.
The Oberkampf ‘hood is not far from the Paris center and is easily accessible by the two handy Metro stops of Parmentier and Goncourt that anchor each end of the main drag of avenue Parmentier.
This local foodie scene, plus easy access to the rest of Paris, is why Oberkampf is one of my favorite places to set up in an apartment for a week or two. But if you’re not staying in this part of town, at least stake out Oberkampf as one of your nightlife destinations. The Oberkampf is the perfect blend of hip, multi-cultural, and families. By day it's filled with relaxed cafes, restaurants, and local shops.
By night, it is laid back yet vibrant.
This short Oberkampf wine bar circuit will provide you with a perfect blend of fantastic vino and some excellent small plate food to keep up your drinking stamina – all with no need for a reservation. In this district you’re also going to find a high proportion of natural wine. Added bonus is that several of these recommendations are open well into the wee hours of the night.
I’ve suggested a route, but vary as you prefer. Pace yourself by relaxing and soaking in the local culture. Several spots are open long past metro closing – so plan to uber, if you're not staying nearby.
Aux Deux Amis
Tuesday – Saturday, 9:30am – 2am / Opens Noon Saturday
45 rue Oberkampf
If you were casually passing by, you might not give this traditional-looking Parisian café a second look. A small, well-worn hole in the wall, Aux Deux Amis looks like a thousand other Parisian cafes. Your first clue that this Oberkampf wine bar is hot is the crowds of locals spilling from the bar onto the sidewalk from its small interior.
Aux Deux Amis opens early, so consider starting your journey here for a late lunch or early supper to set your fortitude for an evening of lots of wine imbibing. If you arrive at Aux Deux Amis at a popular hour, just squish your way in and belly up to the bar to mingle with others in-the-know of this cool wine bar.
La Buvette
Wednesday – Sunday, 5 -10pm / Opens 11am Saturday & Sunday
67 rue Saint Maur
Stark and charming, this natural wine bar is situated on a side street a bit off the beaten Oberkampf path. At La Buvette, you will be able to catch your breath and chill before you head out for the rest of your evening. Relish it. Small cheese plates and charcuterie are typically offered here. This is one of my favorite wine bar spots.
As you head on to your next destination, continue up rue Saint Maur till you are ready to cut over to your next destination on Parmentier. This will give you another perspective on the Oberkampf neighborhood.
La Cave du Daron
Tuesday – Saturday, 11am -10pm / Monday Opens 5pm / Sunday 11am - 2pm
140 aveune Parmentier
Essentially a retail spot with a nicely sized tasting bar, La Cave du Daron takes on a wine bar spirit in the evening, as locals head home from work. As the post-work crowd pops in, they may begin to flow onto the Parmentier sidewalk. Although this is a bottle shop, La Cave du Daron always has a couple of interesting wines by the glass featured on its chalkboard. If you’re flying solo, you’ll be rewarded with some interesting glass options on the changing list. But if you feel like more of a commitment, choose a bottle for a nominal corkage. While La Cave du Daron has no kitchen, you’ll usually find a casual cheese plate or charcuterie to nosh on.
Le Dauphin
Wednesday – Saturday Lunch, 12:30 - 3pm / Evenings Tuesday - Saturday 7pm / Sunday 2am
131 aveune Parmentier
This is the sister wine bar to still-hot Le Chateaubriand restaurant just next door. Le Dauphin's large marble bar takes up the center of this spare wine bar, with its smattering of tables around the perimeter. Don’t worry if you don’t luck into a seat, instead hover around the bar with a glass of great wine and take in the scene. You may want to take advantage of the great food scene here and grab a a few small plates.
Le Plein Soleil
Open Everday 6:30am -2am / Saturdays & Sundays to 5am
90 aveune Parmentier
If you haven’t yet had enough of the Oberkampf zeitgeist, and need to just unwind from your wine bar immersion, consider stopping in at Le Plein Soleil – a buzzy café with a fantastic patio scene. At the end of your wine tour you may need to soak up all that alcohol with some delicious Pommes Frites – and Le Plein Soleil has some of the best in Paris. Friendly and vibrant, this café is always open late. Le Plein Soleil is the perfect mix of chill and vibrant nightlife to end your evening.
Wednesday through Saturday are the best days if you plan to attempt the entire Oberkampf wine bar crawl (see map below). If you need to pace yourself, you can mix and match wine bars over your entire stay, stopping in for a lunch at Aux Deux Amis and perhaps dinner at Le Dauphin. Better yet, consider camping out in Oberkampf for a few days. And if you do, there are some great cafes in this area you can check out in my post on 12 Vibrant Paris Cafes to Feast Upon.
