Also see new Paris Cafe additions in My 9-Day Paris Food Obsession.
I recently packed too many activities into five too-short days in Paris, but I always prioritized passing time in a favorite Paris cafe. Patronizing a Paris cafe these days may instill ambivalence or inspire defiance. To me it’s the quintessential Paris sightseeing activity. I’m satisfied to view the Eiffel Tower from afar - especially from a pleasant outdoor Paris cafe. I'm happy to just "be" in Paris - hanging-out for hours over un café or a glass of wine.
If you've ever been to Paris, you know there is a cafe nearly every few feet. When in doubt, choose a lively one that is full of locals. Smokers, unfortunately, also love sitting in outdoor cafes...and it takes me a couple of days to build up my tolerance and resolve to tune it out. Bonus: Heated al fresco seating available year-round.
So, if you'll be in Paris, consider showing your solidarity by plopping down in a great cafe. I've collected so many favorites over the years that it's tough to find time to squeeze-in new ones. I'm a fan of the Right Bank, so most of my haunts lie there. Here are some of my most favorites by neighborhood.
Montorgueil / Palais-Royal - 2nd Arrondissement
Montorgueil has become a new favorite neighborhood to camp-out in Paris. What attracted me to this 'hood is its lively local vibe, creative food and wine scene, and the diverse neighborhoods. I discovered Montorgueil a few years ago when I realized that I was going to be spending a lot of time in this area haunting great wine bars in the 1st, the Frenchie empire on nearby rue du Nil, and exploring the newly developing edgy 9th arrondisement.
The Montorgueil neighborhood is anchored by its eponymous main drag and sits on two convenient metro lines. Rue Montorgueil is mostly a pedestrian street lined with endless lively cafes and fantastic food shops. There is easy walking to classic sights like the Opera Garnier, the Louvre, and the Palais Royal. To the north there are some fascinating neighborhoods. The 9th is peppered with modern, inventive cafes and progressive bars and restaurants. Just steps away beyond the dramatic Porte Saint-Denis triumphal arch there is a bubbling cauldron of diversity and nearly every type of ethnic food imaginable.
1. Cafe du Centre
I began to frequent this Paris café as a perfect meeting place at Montorgueil’s central crossroads. Since then Café du Centre has become a go-to spot for tasty cappuccinos and friendly service. While it has a lovely interior space, its tightly-packed terrace tables are a great perch from where to watch the Montorgueil world go by. The outdoor seating is lively day and night.
2. Cafe Montorgueil
On my recent trip to Paris, this became my new favorite Paris café in Montorgueil. Cafe du Centre was filled and I noticed the café next door was equally inviting. I had only stopped in for my first caffeine of the day, but it was getting close to lunchtime and croissants were no longer an option. I was compelled by their Salade Chevre Chaud - this version an interesting spin with the de rigueur goat cheese tucked inside egg roll-type pastries and dotted with sundried tomatoes. But it was the golden brown frites that really grabbed my attention and now join my Paris cafe list as some of the best. Cafe Montorgueil has very friendly, attentive service.
3. Bistrot Vivienne
Bistrot Vivienne is actually a bit of a jaunt from Montorgueil, situated on the border of the 1st arrondissement. My trek is always rewarded with a scenic stroll by the lovely and round place des Victoires. Bistrot Vivienne is beautiful in the classic Paris cafe style, and enhanced by being ensconced in one of the one of the most gorgeous of the surviving covered Paris arcades, the Gallerie Vivienne.
Bistrot Vivienne is open continuously starting with breakfast, and my favorite way to start the day here is with their tasty cappuccino and flaky, buttery pain au chocolat. Bistrot Vivienne has an appealing sidewalk scene too, but it's best seating might just be the tables inside the arcade atrium. The atrium is especially popular in the late afternoon when people start to pop in for a glass of wine after work. An additional benefit of Bistrot Vivienne is that it's conveniently located right across the street from the stunning interior gardens of the Palais Royal.
Le Marais - 4th Arrondissement
4. Cafe des Phares
I happened upon Cafe des Phares years ago when I was in desperate need of a cafe break. Given that Cafe des Phares is right on the intensely busy Bastille traffic circle, it’s not a place I would have sought out as a cute sidewalk Paris cafe destination. And yet it has become one of my favorites.
Despite the Marais being a bit tourist heavy, this cafe is typically filled with locals. It has a good basic wine list and one of my favorite Salade Chevre Chauds in Paris - served in the classic style with Bucheron goat cheese melted atop hearty country bread. The outdoor seating is tightly packed, but the bustling Bastille view is lively and worthwhile.
5. Au Bourguignon du Marais
Just a block south of the bustling Marais main drag rue de Rivoli, Cafe Au Bourguignon du Marais feels surprisingly serene on its advantageous corner, tangled among the narrow less-traveled Marais streets not far from the Seine. It's generally intriguing to wander in and out these medieval streets and poke into hidden pockets and cute boutiques. Au Bourguignon is more of an upscale Paris café both with its more refined menu offerings to its prices. But I love its little corner sidewalk café when I need to just get out of the fray, and grab a cheese plate and a nice glass of wine. In inclement weather Au Bourguignon encloses its sidewalk in a sturdy plastic room, so that you can still feel a bit al fresco.
6. Les Philosophes
Les Philosophes anchors the Cafeine empire (which also has other very good nearby cafes) on rue Vieille du Temple. It can be tough to grab a coveted sidewalk table in the evening. Les Philosophes’ outdoor seating is popular for good reason with its well-situated view over this tiny charming Marais street. Les Philosophes has continuous service, with reliably tasty meals. Service is friendly, and I have had the experience of them taking our names for a wait list and then coming to grab us at their appealing sister bookstore-wine bar, La Belle Hortense, just across the street. I enjoy Les Philosophes best at off hours for a glass of wine in the late afternoon, when I'm less likely to have to compete for a table.
While service can be a little brusque at adorable Le Loir dans la Theiere, that can be chalked up to the fact that this place is usually packed. Go at the wrong time of day, and it can be tough to get a seat. The big draw for me at this central Marais spot, which is more coffeehouse than traditional Paris café, is its shabby chic mix & match charm combined with its delicious pastry fare.
Mouthwatering desserts hang-out on vintage sideboards and the hot chocolate is scrumptious. The café's name translates to the Dormouse in the Teapot, which foreshadows its sense of whimsy.
8. La Cafeotheque
Before coffee became a big thing in Paris, there was La Cafeotheque as the original kid on the block. It’s a little off the beaten Marais path, sitting along the Seine. I like its Paris café - cozy coffeehouse sensibility. La Cafeotheque also roasts its own coffee that can be purchased for take-away. Head past the front room to find the friendly barista at the back bar, with a cozy seating area.
Latin Quarter - 5th Arrondissement
I don't need much incentive to drop by this historic Anglophone bookstore packed to the rafters with interesting reads. Shakespeare & Co is folklore-renowned for its goodwill toward struggling writers. The charming English language book shop also holds interesting literary events. So the newish addition of this café, run by well-respected Bob’s Bakeshop, is just one more reason to stop by. Throw in a fabulous Left Bank situation along the Seine with both indoor and alfresco options, and I think it’s hard to go wrong here.
Oberkampf - 11th Arrondissement
My last post on Eastern Paris explained that the Oberkampf is my favorite neighborhood Paris in which to base. I feel like a local staying in this off-the-beaten path neighborhood, and the Oberkampf and I have a long and pleasant history. The Oberkampf is a diverse quartier with great markets, lively cafes, inventive restaurants and bars, and is on good metro lines to easily get around to the rest of Paris. It's also surrounded by other interesting neighborhoods such as the Canal Saint Martin to the north, the Marais to the west, the Bastille to the south, and Belleville to the East. But in the heart of Oberkampf lie two of my very favorite cafes that I wish I could always frequent.
10. L'Autre Café
Sadly, L'Autre Cafe is no more. It was a perfect cafe - and I will leave it here as a historical note.
While L'Autre Cafe is no longer. I can't quite let go of this beautiful, classic Paris café with its stunning belle epoque setting. Throughout the day it would segue from a quiet breakfast to lively spurts of lunch, then vibrant dinner with sometimes live music. They served great casual food that was vegetarian friendly with one of my favorite quinoa salads. I loved being able to pop in any time of day for just a coffee or a glass of wine to just chill, read a book, and recharge my phone or surf the web. This modern Parisian cafe will be missed.
11. Le Plein Soleil
Buzzing from early in the morning till well after midnight, Le Plein Soleil's long and cozily-packed sidewalk seating is clearly its big draw. Sitting on a peninsula at the Parmentier metro station, it is a convenient meeting spot and hence this corner is always bustling with social activity - and great people-watching. Beyond that this buzzy Paris café has friendly service and tasty food & wine, with some of the best frites in town. At night, the ambience transitions to a nightlife vibe. Le Plein Soleil typically has live music on the first Sunday of the month.
Montparnasse – 14th Arrondissement
I first became familiar with Montparnasse upon my first visit to the weekly Sunday Art Market on the Edgar Quinet metro Square. But I came to know it well when I based here at the end of a long Paris stay, in order to be close to the Gare Montparnasse from where I planned to catch my train to Spain. My immediate impression was of a sense of calm, even though it is a perfectly lively quartier.
12. Cafe de la Place
Cafe de la Place has an advantageous location overlooking the central Montparnasse square and the Sunday Art Market. The patio seating is spacious and there is also a covered seating option on the patio.
The food and wine options are good and the service pleasant and efficient. While I might not head to the 14th specifically for this Paris cafe, if I'm in Montparnasse for many other good reasons, I definitely make a point of dropping by for a glass of wine while enjoying the scenic Montparnasse view.
Bonus: Try a New-fangled Paris Cafe...
These days there are all kinds of new and modern cafes & bars that have joined the mix of the classic Paris cafe. This new trend reflects the worldwide artisan coffee mania, including artisan roasters. This is great news for both Paris and visitor coffee lovers, as the odds of getting a great cup of coffee in Paris have immensely improved.
If this type of Paris café is more up your alley, check out these well-regarded coffee spots:
Telescope (1st MO: Pyramides) – Café Kitsune (1st MO: Musee du Louvre) - Boot (3rd MO: Saint-Sébastien-Froissart) - Fondation (3rd MO: Temple) - Fragments (3rd MO: Chemin Vert) - Loustic (3rd MOs: Arts et Metiers / Rambuteau) - O Coffee Shop (3rd MO: Sentier) - Ob-La-Di (3rd MO: Filles Calvaire) - Honor (8th MO: Concorde) Holybelly - (10th MO: Jacques Bonsergent) - Ten Belles (10th MOs: Jacques Bonsergent / Goncourt) - Café Oberkampf (11th MO: Parmentier) - Cuiller (18th MO: Abesses) - Belleville Brulerie (19th MOs: Belleville / Pyrenees)
