With a few exceptions, I prefer the right bank for its propensity for emerging, edgy neighborhoods with mixed ethnicities, cutting-edge cuisine, and favorite wine bars. These are some notes about favorite Paris resources and destinations, typically wine bars, craft beer, cafes, restaurants, and art. Many trips later, I’ve refined this list over the years – organized by arrondissement. Many favorites remain, but always making room for new experiences.
Jump to Arrondissement
1st – 2nd – 3rd – 4th – 5th – 6th
7th – 8th – 9th – 10th – 11th – 12th – 14th
Tips & Resources
Planet Gusto Articles.
12 Vibrant Cafes to Feast Upon
Verjus Serves of the Best of New Paris Food Scene
Oberkamp’s Parisian Wine Bar Nightlife
Paris by Mouth. Terrific, well-organized dining recommendations published by American ex pat foodies. Not only will you find insight on latest trends and Paris hot spots, you will get some great tips on how to navigate the Paris food scene. Look for tips on how far in advance you need to book for particular restos, where you can book well at the last-minute, and where to dine on a Sunday night. Also great leads on food shops. I’ve enjoyed two of their small and focused food tours on wine and cheese. These tours are great for solo travelers and anyone who wants a local foodie’s insight into Paris food culture.
Wendy Lyn: American ex pat, food journalist with savvy insight to both new and classic restaurants and wine bars. Check out her website or follow her Paris is My Kitchen Instagram for recommendations.
Not Drinking Poison in Paris. Entertaining blog focused on wine in Paris by ex pat, ex-sommelier Aaron Ayscough who has a passion for natural wine.
David Lebovitz. Live vicariously through David’s cooking and dining experience in Paris – and sometimes beyond.
City Secrets Paris. Love this book series composed of short insider recommendations by artists, architects, writers, etc. Wish it were on Kindle.
Open Air Markets. Whatever neighborhood you’re staying in, it’s likely to have a regular outdoor mark. Chocolate & Zucchini has a handy list.
Sights…
Museums. Avoid crowds (but not all) by going on its evening openings (e.g., Louvre has two nights) and use the good deal Paris Museum Card with its extensive participating museums that lets you avoid lines. Purchase the Carte Musee at a smaller museum, not the Louvre for instance. Museum closure days tend to be Monday or Tuesday, so the open museums on those days will be more crowded. Plan strategically with the right mix of open days and night visits to optimize the pass.
Food & Drink: Paris is the perfect town to immerse in the Natural Wine scene. Craft Beer is also has an emerging scene here. From casual cafes to trendy wine bar bistros, it’s not hard to wrong in Paris. Modern Asian Fusion bistros currently abound… as do Italian and middle eastern restaurants. As a Pescatarian foodie, these days Paris is an easy place to place to find delicious and affordable interesting cuisine. (See Paris map below.)
Getting Around…
Metro. Paris is such a great walking city that I don’t purchase a metro pass. But the Metro is fabulous when you need to use it – an abundance of stations with trains that come often. Instead I purchase a carnet (car-nay), a packet of 10 discounted tickets that are shareable. I usually find it most convenient to plan ahead and purchase my carnet at one of the larger stations that is manned.
Paris Pratique par Arrondissement. If you don’t have constant access to GPS, pick this handy pocket street guide in almost any tabac for a nominal amount.
Festival Favorites…
Nuit Blanche. First Saturday in October from 7pm to 7am Sunday morning. Each year a different curator puts together a thematic performance and multi-media art all over the city. Detail are not released until a couple of weeks prior and usually the actual schedule doesn’t come out until a couple of days before.
Beaujolais Nouveau. By its very nature, Beaujolais nouveau is not the best wine, but the celebration is infectious when in Paris. Always the third Thursday in November. Paris by Mouth provides a good guide.
Paris Photo. Annual Photography festival in November throughout the city. The event is packed with interesting photos and industry type, but worth checking out.
By Neighborhood
My favorite neighborhoods as a home base are Oberkampf anf Montorgueil. Each brings its own personality with the perfect balance of central and local feel. Other favorite neighborhoods include Canal St. Martin, the Triangle of Eastern Paris, and Montparnasse. Neighborhoods that are further out deserve consideration, given how easy and frequent the Metro is. And for those last nights, Uber works as easily as in the U.S.
1st Arrondissement
The cross streets of rue de Richelieu, rue des Petit Champ, and rue Vivienne are packed with great wine bars and dining options…
FOOD
Ellsworth. This modern and popular bistro is a great option to experience the Verjus family if you can’t get a reservation for Verjus or if you just aren’t up for the Tasting Menu splurge. While Ellsworth is more casual, you will get the same great service and ambiance. The menu is interesting and offers the same complexity of flavors.
♥ Juveniles. Another excellent, low-key wine bar that is a don’t miss for dinner. Cozy and friendly with amazing food and wine list.
Verjus. After many Paris excursions and not planning sufficiently ahead for the Tasting Menu experience at Verjus, I finally got my act together – and at first bite, wondered what had taken me so long. You can read about my extraordinary meal in my post Verjus Serves Up the Best of New Paris Food Scene. In a nutshell, the value for this affordable prix-fixe seasonally conceived Paris is realized through the creativity and beautiful plating that does not out-shine the execution or deliciousness of each plate. But add on the service and ambiance and this place has it all. The experience is truly memorable. Definitely splurge on the wine pairing.
WINE
Verjus Bar a Vins. Cute & super cozy stone cave-like wine bar with yummy small plate snacks and good wine list. Tricky to find as it sits in a little alley down the steps behind its namesake restaurant. You can find it off the little alley of rue de Montpensier or go through the tunnel-like entrance, past its namesake highly recommended Verjus, off of rue de Richelieu and down the back stairs.
Willis Wine Bar. Brit owned, has a bit of a reputation as an ex pat hang-out – English no problem here. Interesting wine list by the glass. Pleasant dining room, but I enjoy grabbing dinner at the bar. A great Sunday option. Pick up one of their annually changing posters.
CAFES
Bistrot Vivienne. Cute upscale cafe that serves food all day. Besides its indoor dining room, you can sip a glass of wine or coffee on the front sidewalk or inside the beautiful covered Gallerie Vivienne mall – one of the view covered vintage malls existing in Paris. A nice stop after strolling through the Palais Royal garden.
SIGHTS
♥ Palais Royal and Garden. Nearly hidden, it’s worth a stop to walk through or sit and read a book in this historic courtyard garden. Its colonnaded perimeter is lined with shops and galleries. Once you wend your way to the Palais Royal building, it’s not difficult to find and entrance into the garden.
The Islands…
Place Dauphine. Near the point of Ile de la Cite, this charming historical square is nearly hidden, but worth seeking out for a peaceful glass of wine or lunch. It’s fun to cross the street to the point of the island and look down the Seine – maybe jump on one of the bateaux. Pop into nearby Taverne Henri IV.
Near the Louvre…
WINE
♥ Le Garde Robe. I’d probably never have a reason to be in this part of the 1st if I weren’t specifically looking for La Garde Robe. I love this friendly, ambient, and buzzy wine bar. You can hang at the bar or a table outside or sit at a back table earlier in the evening before the reservations kick in for more serious food. I typically focus more on the changing wines by the glass and grab a cheese (charcuterie) plate prepared at the bar. An easy segue from the Louvre.
BAR
Le Fumoire. A solid spot to know about near the Louvre. I like to pop by this place for a break after walking a couple of miles in the museum. It has cute little tables in the front bar area in a library setting. You can get a cocktail or glass of wine with a snack. Can get crowded after work.
2nd Arrondissement
Montorgueil – Paris Porte Saint Denis – Paris
♥ Montorgueil. Great neighborhood with buzzy pedestrian Montorgueil as its anchor, but has been bolstered by its wine bar rich 1st arrondisemont on one side and its hip 9th eme neighbor on the other. Rue du Nil to the north has raised its stock even more.
Ma Cave Fleury. Delightful, funky wine bar with great ambience – modern eclectic playing cool tunes in the background with friendly service. And, of course, a great wine list.
Experimental Cocktail Club. If you just can’t do one more fabulous Paris wine bar, this hip, late-night cocktail spot is the perfect change of pace. Dark, vibe-y, and fun – with cool music.
Breizh Café. Breizh on the other hand is classic: Crepes. Safe to reserve ahead but now that it has several Paris locations there’s a bit less pressure. Like the friendly, modern spot in Montorgueil with outdoor searing and cool downstairs bar.
CAFE
♥ Cafe Montorgueil. My favorite cafe on in this area. Friendly, tasty food and wine, and great people watching.
Rue du Nil Environs…
The Frenchie Empire has sired/promulgated the niche food shops that have emerged on pedestrian alley of Rue du Nil. It’s definitely worth a walk-through and grabbing a takeaway from Frenchie To Go, on the most whirlwind foodie itinerary.
Frenchie. The anchor of Gregory Marchand’s empire. Of the prix fixe leisurely variety. Reserve well in advance if this remotely interests you. Don’t be surprised to see Marchand hanging out at any one of his establishments on rue du Nil.
♥ Frenchie Bar a Vins. Frenchie Bar a Vin I love this hip wine bar with its small interesting plates and knowledgeable wine staff. No reservations, so consider lining up 15-20 mins prior to its 7pm opening. The staff has it down to a well-organized system. A few minutes before opening staff will emerge to check how many in your party and escort your to your table.
Frenchie to Go. The latest in the empire plays on American comfort food. Dine in or take away items such as reubens, lobster roll, pulled pork, hot dog. There may be a slow moving line when you arrive, but revel in the experience and chat with others in line. It will give you time to ponder your choice. Also serves breakfast.
3rd Arrondissement – The Haut Marais
This northern, hipper Marais has become a breeding ground for hipsters, trendy new bistros, and interesting bars.
FOOD
♥ Les Enfants du Marche. Fanstatic stall in the Marche des Enfants Rouge. A worthwhile splurge with stunning seafood options and great natural wine list. A good place to share plates or just stop in for a glass of wine and people watch the Market. No reservations.
♥ Le St. Sebastien. One of my best all-around Paris food experiences: cool mid-century modern room, with inventive-delicious food, fantastic wine list, and friendly hospitality that makes you feel like you’ve been invited over to dinner. Reserve at least a few days in advance.
CAFE
♥ Fringe Coffee. Cool little photography coffeehouse. Modern in style and sensibility of housemade bread and granola. Friendly and happy to have you hang out with your computer and with plenty of electric outlets.
ART
Picasso Museum has finally reopened after years of closure. It’s been closed so long, their site now recommends advanced booking.
Henri Cartier-Bresson Foundation. This is a fantastic off the beaten path, small photography museum.
4th Arrondissement
Central, local, and lively, the Marais has become a tourist mecca as a home base. It’s historical and charming medieval streets still make it worth wandering.
Near the Hotel de Ville…
FOOD
♥ L’As du Fallafel. The best fallafel, outside of Israel, you will ever eat. There’s a reason there is a line. Don’t be sucked in by more time-efficient nearby falafel options in the Jewish quarter of the Marais. Be strategic. Consider off hours, and plan around their Friday night/Saturday Shabbat closure. Don’t let the lines throw you off – L’As Du Fallafel has it down to a system. If you line up, staff walk the line to take your order and money and your order is quickly filled at the window. If you opt to sit inside – and I would since there isn’t nearby outdoor seating/park options – the dining room is large and turnover is quick.
Chez Marianne. It’s not that this is the most brilliant Mediterranean you will ever eat, but it’s a good go-to place to know about for its blend of cozy ambiance and tasty mezza will suck you in. Choose 10 delicious mezza and share a cheap meal with a friend in an ambient setting. There is a second dining next door, and they’re happy to let you wait for a table. There’s a reason this place has continued to be popular for years.
WINE
La Belle Hortense. It’s hard not to love this place for its book-wine and zinc bar concept. Changing chalk board, small list of wine by the glass of interesting wines. Walk around with wine in hand and peruse books or lounge on the couches in the back.
CAFES
Au Bourguignon du Marais. A favorite cafe to get away from the Marais bustle. While only about a block off the Marais’ main street of rue de Rivoli, the Café feels like a peaceful oasis. This is more of an upscale cafe with pricier, classic entrees and wine. The indoor dining room is lovely, but grab a sidewalk table to lounge and watch the world go by. In poor weather the patio is ensconced in a clear plastic tent so you can still enjoy the outdoors. You can have a full meal, or just grab a glass of wine. After your meal, wander around the tangle of streets in this area and you will come upon some cute boutiques.
Cafe des Phares. If you find yourself on the east end of the Marais near the Bastille, this is a very reliable cafe to sit and watch the buzzy world go by around the Bastille traffic circle. Tasty food and wine list.
L’Etoile Manquante. Great place to grab un café et croissant.
ART
♥ Maison Européenne de la Photographie. Not quite gallery. Not quite museum. This institute of changing photography is excellent! The size is manageable but robust. If you remotely like photography, wander in here for an hour.
5th Arrondissement
Near the Seine…
Grande Mosquee de Paris. The mosque is a lovely place to enjoy architecture and relax over a cup of tea in its cafe.
Shakespeare and Company. An English language bookstore with a rich lost-generation history. The shop is just as charming and jam-packed as you might imagine. They have regular English language events here with authors and often possible a reception after with light refreshments.
Near Jardin du Luxembourg…
Musee de Cluny. Fabulous Middle Ages museum. A bit off the beaten path in the spread-out 5th. Perhaps partner this with a visit to the Pantheon/Sorbonne or a foodie stroll down rue Mouffetard, followed by dinner at Les Papilles perhaps.
6th Arrondissement
FOOD
Fish – La Boissonnerie. I like this place – food is good. Atmosphere is lively. It’s known as an ex pat hang out. So especially for those traveling solo, consider this as a go-to place to grab dinner at the bar.
WINE
Freddy’s. Perfect St. Germain respite for a nice glass of wine and a small plate in the bustling small streets of the gallery district.
♥ L’Avant Comptoir de la Mer. Cool sit-at-the-bar with spot with the freshest seafood, best wine, and friendly service.
ART
Galleries. I love to wander around the 6th up and down the tiny crooked streets around rue de Buci, rue de Seine, and rue Mazarine, stuffed with gorgeous galleries.
7th Arrondissement
A general comment about the 7th: It’s very spread out and mostly residential or business offices – not good for strolling and metro stops are far apart. I find it useful to be strategic and pack my visit to the 7th into one day. For example, I would hit the Military Museum at Les Invalides (Napolean’s Tomb is captivating), the wonderful Musee Rodin, and the Eiffel Tower in one outing. While a good walk, these are all in fairly close proximity. The Rodin is definitely worth the trek – the Eiffel Tower can be seen from any where in the city. Consider making it an adventure and take a batteau down the Seine to get to or leave from the Eiffel Tower (open late and now has online reservation time). Check out Paris by Mouth’s list of Not Terrible Near the Eiffel Tower.
Les Cocottes de Christian Constant. I’ll admit that I saw this one on an Anthony Bourdain show. Les Cocottes was a tasty, casually modern restaurant just a few blocks from the Eiffel tower on a cute street. Be prepared to eat in close quarters, communal style.
9th Arrondissement
The 9th is in a revival and has some really cool restaurants and bars…
IBRIK. Tasty casual middle eastern fare with good lunch specials and cozy, low-couch seating upstairs. The reason to pop up to the 9th though are the desserts, particularly the luscious and mesmerizing Pistachio Cake.
L’Office. Still on my list to try. Modern style French cuisine in the vein of Frenchie in the cool 9th.
Le Richer. Loved its inventive menu and casual friendly service.
10th Arrondissement
BOULANGERIE
Du Pain et des Idees. Excellent boulangerie worth crossing town for. It’s immensely popular, but don’t let the lines deter you. The Chocolate-Pistachio Escargot pastry is iconic.
CAFE
♥ Ten Belles. Adorable coffeehouse outpost of the Ten Belles bakery. Best coffee in Paris. No worries if there are no open seats in the tiny downstairs, there is an upstairs alcove.
STAY
Le Citizen Hotel. I usually stay in AirBnBs these day’s, but in a short stay that book-ended Paris, I chose this charming boutique hotel overlooking the Canal St. Martin. I loved my stay at Le Citizen. Sort of hipster boutique hotel with a bit of whimsy. Fun and friendly service.
11th Arrondissement
Bastille…
CAFE
♥ Ten Belles Bread. Large modern cafe with bakery that makes the most fantastic bread that can be found in certain restaurants around town. Great morning stop for probably the best coffee and tartine in town. Back terrace seating in good weather.
Near Oberkampf…
This has been one of my favorite neighborhoods to stay in. Off the beaten very local and ethnically mixed, yet steps away from the Marais.
FOOD
Double Dragon. Chinese food creatively turned on its head with delicious results. Interesting wine list. A fun night out. No reservations.
Le Villaret. I have long loved this bistro for its down-to-earth elegance. When I long for classic French, with a simple country sensibility, I head here. Settle in for a few courses, but pace yourself to save room for the Cheese Board at the end – a an old school, multi-tiered cupboard to your table, layered a slew of French cheeses from mild to stinky. You take what you want from the board before they whisk it away to another table. The menu is inherently meaty, but I have always been able to get a great fish dish. Fantastic wine list with many reasonable options. You can often reserve last minute.
WINE
♥ Aux Deux Amis. The perfect blend of divey neighborhood joint and foodie destination. This hole-in-the-wall cafe serves delicious small plates and has a fantastic changing wine list. Arrive at an off-hour to get a seat or better yet, join the local throngs spilling onto the sidewalk for a perfect laidback, yet vibrant Paris nightlife experience.
La Cave du Daron. A wine merchant that also has a wine bar. Smalle cheese and charcuterie on offering. A few changing wines by the glass. Great vibe – this casual place can get packed with locals in the evening.
La Buvette. Hole-in-the-wall natural wine bar that’s a bit off-the-beaten path on an Oberkampf side street that is worth seeking out. The setting is bare bones casual with changing bottles open for by-the-glass pouring. Serves small plates of cheese-charcuterie plates, food purchase required.
BEER
♥ La Fine Mousse. Love this world craft beer place with tons of interesting taps and friendly service.
CAFE
Cafe Oberkampf. A great way to start the morning with great coffee and delicious healthy breakfast like Avocado Toast and Granola Bowl w/ Yoghurt. Segues to lunch. Tiny so arrive early to avoid line. No computers allowed.
♥ Le Plein Soleil. I love this cafe, right at the Parmentier metro. It has coveted patio seating, but inside dark but just fine. Good food, but the best pommes frites I’ve had in Paris. Jazz brunch first Sunday of the month
Triangle: Ledru-Rollin – Charonne – Faidherbe-Chaligny…
FOOD
Clamato. It remains to be seen whether Clamato is style over substance. Oh but what style. The modern ambiance, the service, the menu, and the wine list would make me give it another spin the the time I’m in Paris. Given its Septime pedigree and its seafood focus, the actual execution of the fish plates were disappointing. But if you’re looking for something hip and casual that you can opt for at the last minute then Clamato might just be for you. No reservations – people start lining up before it opens. So, go early to ensure you get in. The first night I tried getting in to Clamato, I made the mistake of arriving towards the end of service when the list was already full. The next time, I went for an early glass of wine at Septime Cave and then lined up at Clamato about 20 minute before it opened, getting a perfect solo seat at the bar.
Le 6 Paul Bert. This restaurant is excellent and offers a fantastic and reasonable 4 course prix fixe. Great fish options.
♥ Mokonuts. This cute, family run place with a Middle Eastern with a French flare was one of my best meals anywhere, let alone Paris. Get a bottle of wine or go with a glass of whatever they have open. Make a reservation in advance for lunch only.
WINE
Septime Cave. Fantastic cozy natural wine bar with minimal food to nosh on but worthwhile driveby for its excellent wine list. If interested in big sister Septime, plan far in advance.
12th Arrondissement
WINE
Le Siffleur de Ballons. Great modern-style wine bar serving food.
14th Arrondissement
Near Montparnasse…
♥ Sunday Art Market. I always plan my Paris Sundays around going to this expansive art mart filled with unique, talented artists. Set up in the middle of the spacious Edgar Quinet square in the heart of Montparnasse, these artists of painters, photographer, jewelrey designers, and hat makers take up about two full blocks. A great place to purchase unique gifts for yourself of others.
Cafe de la Place. My favorite place on the Edgar Quinet square to grab a glass of Bandol with a salade chevre chaud and watch Montparnasse go by.
20th Arrondissement
FOOD
Le Cheval D’Or. Super trendy with tasty food, although not a lot of options for Pescatarians let alone Vegetarians. Okay wine list. A lot of planning is required to get a table here, although you can do a walk-in for a bar seat – but it’s a risk given that it’s out of the way.
Le Grand Bain. The food here is creative and seasonal. Cool, spare space with bar seating and lots of ambiance. Natural wine focus.
BEER
Les Trois 8. Great neighborhood place for craft beer if you happen to be in the area. Not the spot for natural wine options, even though they have a couple options on their chalkboard menu. Hipster crowd.
Planet Gusto’s Paris Recommendations…
