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Eating My Way Across New England

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I just returned from two amazing weeks in New England, and while it was filled with stunning scenery and interesting festivals, it was clearly dominated by food. I spent nearly half the trip in Boston’s city center, with focus on the city’s hip South End …but also did a lot of calorie damage on the other side of the river in Cambridge and Somerville as well as a few road trips including to Rhode Island and Maine. Luckily, Boston is a great walking city to walk off all those calories.

Tapas, Lobster, Donuts, and Ice Cream… Oh My!

Myriad food themes emerged over my New England travels – some intentional and some delightfully surprising. I knew that Lobster would be a big theme in Maine and set out to undertake my own personal Lobster Roll taste-challenge – but had no idea the variations and modern twists I would encounter. In addition to Lobster, New England was full of innovative shared small plates, cool bars, and the most compelling flavor profiles in donuts and ice cream.

Lobster…

Classic Lobster Rolls varied from simple to heavy mayo dressing – and then there was Eventide’s modern brown butter approach blew me away.

Lobster Roll - The Clam Shack- Kennebunk, Maine
Clam Shack – Kennebunk
Lobster Roll with Brown Butter on Bao Eventide Portland Maine
Eventide – Portland, ME

Amazing small plate dishes…

Crispy Spring Rolls with Asian Pear Duck Sauce - Myers+ Chang - Boston
Spring Rolls – Myers + Chang
Toro – Padron Peppers

…and excellent bars.

Verdad Y Amor White Tequial Hibiscus Cocktail Toro, South End, Boston, MA
Toro – Verdad Y Amor Cocktail

Donuts…

While not a diehard donut fan, I became obsessed with donuts across New England. The inventive flavor profiles were just too compelling to pass up.  

Donuts from Union Square Donuts - Somerville
Union Square Donuts – Somerville
Donuts, Blackbird Donuts - Boston
Blackbird Donuts – Boston

Ice Cream…

While ice cream was a no-brainer, the quality and flavors surpassed my expectations. And you have to love Mt. Desert Island’s self-realization that it has too many good flavors and so offers its customers a tasting option!

Whoopi Pie Ice Cream - Rococo Ice Cream - Kennebunport, Maine
Whoopi Pie – Rococo – Kennebunkport, ME
Bedford, MA
4-Taste @ Mt. Desert Island Ice Cream - Portland, Maine
4-Taster – Mt. Desert Island – Portland, ME

New England Roadtrip Food Crawl

Let the foodie roadtrip begin… From exploring numerous Boston neighborhoods, countryside, and coastline to driving south to Rhode Island and then north up to Maine, there was a lot of compelling sights, food, and drink.

Maine

The pinnacle of my New England journey, however, may have been three glorious days driving up the Maine coast, with two nights in charming, down-to-earth, and innovative Portland.

Portland Head Light, Cape Elizabeth, Maine
Port Headlight – Cape Elizabeth
Lobster Rolle - MC Perkins Cove - Ogunquit, Maine
Lobster Roll – MC Perkins Cove – Ogunquit
White wine Moschofilero in counter window Eventide Portland Maine
Eventide – Portland

New Hampshire

Stopping in quaint Portsmouth, NH or Newburyport, MA is the perfect way to break up your travel on the way to Maine. Cava had a great wine list, delicious food, and lovely ambience.

Massachusetts Backroads

Other days, we were all over the New England map with day trips wending along the coast and crawling the country backroads of breathtaking Cape Ann

Starting along the coast in picturesque seaside towns…

Colorful shops and galleries, Rockport Village, MA
Rockport Village, MA

To change it up, we cut over to countryside backroads to peruse farmhouse stores and recommended ice cream stops.

Sign at road at Russell Orchards - Ipswich, MA
Russell Orchards – Ipswich, MA

Heading west to Groton, we had a delicious meal in this barn style interior on a farm at the Gibbet Hill Grill.

Gibbet Hill Grill – Groton, MA

Rhode Island & Environs: Fall River, MA – Newport – Providence

Another day we trekked to Providence by way of Fall River and Newport.

Fall River…

First up was a visit to Fall River, where my Father’s family settled upon immigrating from Ireland in the New England textile mills many generations ago (and, of course, Lizzie Borden fame). Fall River is filled with stunning architecture, but feels like a historic industrial town almost lost in time. 

Newport…

Touring mansions and …

Vanderbilt Mansion – The Breakers
The Breakers

…dining with a marina view.

Providence…

Our ultimate destination, though, was Providence to see the monthly public art fest WaterFire in Providence, Rhode Island, that surprisingly turned into much more. As throngs of people surrounded the river that runs through the city, the lights went down and boats were lit on fire, and smoke filled the air. It was dramatic but startling in the low-lit environment and carbon-filled air.

Fire on River at WaterFire - Providence, RI
WaterFire – Providence, RI

A nearby downtown festival enhanced the vibrant atmosphere.

We ended the evening for a late night bowl of Ramen and Kimchi in minimalist cool Ken’s.

Ken’s Ramen
Kimchi – Ken’s Ramen

Boston’s South End

My vacation goal was to avoid the beaten-tourist-path and just wander and explore – immersing myself in Boston’s local urban scene. The South End was particularly rewarding with its charming brownstones, community gardens, fantastic restaurants.

SoWa Market

The SoWA (South of Washington) Open Market on Sundays is a vast market that spans food trucks, produce market, artisan wares.

Food TrucksSoWa Sunday Market - Boston, MA

Boston’s Back Bay

Meandering through the Back Bay across the classic Boston Commons and around Newberry Street, I encountered stunning vintage architecture contrasted with the now closed gallery-meets-restaurant/bar Liquid Art House. 

Chandelier over bar with wine glass Liquid Art House - Back Bay, Boston
Liquid Art House – Back Bay, Boston
Cafe outdoor dining patio, Newberry Street - Back Bay, Boston
Newberry Street – Back Bay, Boston

Boston Commons…

String Quartet playing on Pond at Boston Commons, Boston, MA
Boston Commons

Boston’s North End

And speaking of iconic, no trip to Boston is complete for me without a North End drive-by for a Modern Pastry made-to-order cannoli, as well as picking up a couple bottles of wine from one of my favorite wine merchants anywhere, The Wine Bottega

Interior of Wine Merchant - The Wine Bottega - North End, Boston
The Wine Bottega – North End, Boston

Beacon Hill

But with so much on the Boston wish-list itinerary, one full day was strategically devised to pop on and off the Red Line, beginning with a Union Square Donut feast and segueing to public art festivities, a foodie incarceration at a Jail turned cool hotel bar scene, a mini wine bar – craft beer crawl, and ending with late night tapas.

It’s always fun to grab a drink in the Charles Street Jail – now Liberty Hotel.

Cambridge

Cambridge offered great food and drink options, as well as urban exploring through street art and festivals.

Graffiti Alley - Cambridge
Graffiti Alley – Cambridge
Chalk street drawings River Fest - Cambridge, Mass
River Fest – Cambridge

Great bars for both wine and craft beer…

Outside patio Belly Wine Bar - Cambridge
Belly Wine Bar – Cambridge
Bar from above at Meadhall beer hall for craft beer - Cambridge
Meadhall – Cambridge

And one of the best meals of my trip…

Oleana Dining Room w/ Fireplace Cambridge, MA
Baby Greens, Cherries, Labne & Hazelnut
Salad of Baby Greens, Cherries, Labne & Hazelnut – Oleana
Scallops w/ Saffron-Leek Musakhan, Sumac and Almond – Oleana

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