The English Market was at the top of my list to check out on my visit to Cork City. As someone obsessed with food, markets are always a priority. So map in hand, I wended my way through Cork’s tangle of small angled streets searching for the elusive entrance.
The English Market tops nearly every list of must-see sights in Cork City. Even as someone who seeks out markets, I was skeptical that the English market would be that fabulous. But it was.
As I entered the English Market with its vaulted ceiling swarm of food stalls, I was immediately impressed. The English Market truly is a mecca of foodiness.
The open mall of the English Market was lively, but not crowded. It was packed with stall after stall of amazing-looking food that made me wish I was staying in an apartment and could lug home bags of delicious groceries.
Rows of head-turning food grabbed by attention at every twisting aisle. Myriad breads, meat and fish counters, produce, wine, chocolates, pastries, deli, ethnic foods and on and on.
And this food was beautiful. I was in heaven.
And even though the English Market is rated as a tourist sight, Cork is luckily not a touristy town so I was mostly amongst locals doing their daily shopping. Vendors were friendly and happily answered questions.
Farmgate – Upstairs at The English Market
I had timed my visit so that I could first look around the English Market and then grab an early lunch upstairs at recommended Farmgate. As lunchtime in Ireland seems to start for most around 1pm, I headed up to Farmgate about noon to ensure a table at this popular restaurant.
At the top of the stairs I found that I could go right or left to apparently different venues. To the right, I found a more the more casual Farmgate where you order sandwiches and salads at the counter and then sit at a table or counter along the long narrow terrace that looks out over the market below. They confirmed that Farmgate table service was on the other side.
I entered through the closed door that walled off the more formal Farmgate and found the restaurant had only a couple of other early lunchers. With the door snugly shut behind me the market buzz was silenced and replaced with pleasant classical music. I was seated at a window table with a bird’s eye view over the indoor piazza of the English Market. The space was charming and cozy, although the service seemed overwhelmed even with just a few diners.
Farmgate has an a la carte menu and daily specials for their tart, fish, and meat. I loved the idea that Farmgate has changing tart and fish dishes each day. But ultimately I found it difficult to choose as I found across the menu the combination of flavors rather peculiar, such as smoked haddock in pastry topped with cheese.
I settled on the fish chowder in tomato cream sauce to start. It was filled with cod and mussels – and a big chunk of super fresh salmon that was particularly tasty. The chowder was fine but over-powered by the cream base, which made it bland. And I found it odd and disappointing for an Irish chowder to have no potatoes.
For my main dish, I chose the daily Tart special of Butternut Squash & Blue Cheese. Another odd combination in my mind. The Tart was very rich and difficult to finish. Even the Brown Bread was disappointing – the first place in Ireland where I wasn’t compelled to simply make an entire meal of brown bread and Irish butter. I think the menu was designed to be creative modern comfort food, but it just didn’t resonate with my palate.
A Last Look Around the English Market
Heading back down into the English Market, I saw a sign that indicated the only food allowed upstairs is that purchased in the market. I was heartened. Next time I could actually shop in the Market and tote it upstairs to eat in the pleasant cafeteria section!
The English Market in the early afternoon was now a sea of people. I waded through to take a last look at all the gorgeous food that I reluctantly concluded I could not take with me.
It’s not unusual for Cork restaurants to note that items on their menu come from a particular stall in the English Market. Cork is rightfully proud of its English Market – the Market is clearly all about aesthetics. I loved Cork City, so I know I will be back again.
This visit to the English Market was more a feast for the eyes. But there will be another opportunity to approach this gastronomic market more strategically…and more satisfyingly.
The English Market is best entered from the small, pedestrian Princes St. Not only is the entrance most apparent, but it is architecturally stunning.
My other lesson-learned is the my next outing to the English Market will be to shop in the market and bring my bounty upstairs, purchase a glass of wine, and perch at a seat that looks out over the market atrium.
