Last weekend I headed to Clarksburg spurred on by my recent interest in checking out more off-the-beaten path wine country surrounding the Bay Area. I've been finding some interesting wines that have renewed my interest in the California winemakers who have decidedly moved away from the traditional oaky-buttery days of yore. Yeah, some people love that. But not me.
Setting off from downtown Sacramento with a short stint on Highway 5, and we were suddenly in the bucolic Delta on a scenic road winding along the Sacramento River. The tree-lined South River Road, with no shoulder, hangs precariously over a steep drop to the river on one side and agriculture on the other.
It's amazing that cars zoom so fast on this well-paved road - one glitch and you could easily be down the embankment and floating in the river.
A 20-minute drive later and we were in Clarksburg with its swath of vineyards as far as we could see. I typically prefer tasting wine at the vineyard, but Clarksburg houses most of its tasting rooms at the Old Sugar Mill. But upon pulling into the parking lot, the Old Sugar Mill is immediately impressive.
Being an architecture fanatic, it is a happy coincidence that the Old Sugar Mill is housed in a striking vintage brick factory. It has a fascinating history that includes the Amalgamated Sugar Company moving the factory piece-by-piece from Utah by railroad in the early 1930s. The Sugar company changed ownership a couple of times and finally closed in 1993. Instead of razing the Mill when its factory life came to an end, a developer had the inspiration to repurpose it into a wine tasting venue.
The juxtaposition of red-brick industrial with modern tasting rooms tucked into cozy nooks off of the expansive, airy corridor is quite appealing. With so many tasting room options though, it's difficult to know where to start - after all, even if you're not driving, one can only drink so much wine.
Merlo Family Vineyards
Based on two thumbs-up from a friend, we decided to start with the Merlo Family Vineyards. We bellied up to the horseshoe-shaped bar and grabbed a stool in the shadow of Merlo's looming wine barrels. Perusing Merlo's wine list, we quickly noticed that most of their wine isn't from Clarksburg, but from way up north in Trinity County. Not only is Trinity far off the beaten path, but the region is renowned for its pot-growing activities and therefore none too fond of visitors. Hence, they have a more central wine tasting room in Clarksburg. Merlo was just pouring what they had open that day - okay, we're in.
Merlo staff were friendly and informative - and offered a wide range of varietals. We started with a chardonnay - and then quickly moved to their Syrah rose that was pretty tasty. We moved into the pinot noirs and Zinfandels which were pretty good - not overly oaked but a little high in alcohol for my taste. Merlo wines seem to range between about 13.4 - 14.5% alcohol, and I much preferred the wines that were at the lower end of the range.
The wine that blew us away though was their 2005 Cabernet - interestingly from Napa grapes. It was rich and balanced - earthy with nice fruit. Its list price was $50, but they were down to their last case and had marked it way down. So, we walked away with 3 bottles of the 2005 Cab for $20/bottle. It went fantastic with the Spaghetti we made the next night. I'm now kicking myself for not taking home a couple more bottles.
Draconis Vineyards
Based on a recommendation from Merlo staff, we headed next to the Draconis tasting room. We might never have known about this quirky label had we not gotten a tip. Housed in a small dark tasting room located outside and in the back of the Mill, we felt like we had stumbled upon something cool and special.
Draconis’ makeshift bar gave it a pop-up flavor that at once made it feel refreshing and modern. The casual air underscored by their large friendly cockerdoodle that weaved between tasters.
This ambience completely fits winemaker Matt Powell’s underground reputation with his minimalist approach to winemaking. Draconis is Lodi-based, but uses the Old Sugar Mill as its tasting room on weekends.
This day they were serving only three wines - two Zinfandels and a Petite Syrah. We were quickly disappointed that they had sold out of the Petite Syrah for the season. Instead the winemaker had whipped up 2012 Roisin Dubh Merlot, which was fruity and interesting.
But we were hooked on the 2009 Zinfandel and I greedily scooped up a bottle. I think I may have become a Matt Powell devotee.
Another great find. I like Lodi wines, but Clarksburg wine was remaining elusive.
Elevation Ten Winery
As we headed back into the large hall filled with floral art exhibits, we wondered should we try one more. I was drawn to Elevation Ten by its olive oil signage and charming tasting room. Clarksburg wine!
Okay, we would split one more taste. Unlike many of the other tasting rooms in the Old Sugar mill that feature a simple bar, Elevation Ten's tasting room is spacious and features comfy chairs and high top tables. They also have snacks like cheese available for purchase.
We started with a refreshing 2013 Sauvignon Blanc from Lake County. And finally – from Clarksburg, a dense fruity 2012 Petit Verdot, followed by a nice earthy 2011 Syrah from Napa. But the big winner for us was the 2012 Zinfandel from El Dorado county – let’s just stay that bottle didn’t hang around long on the wine rack.
Okay, we would split one more taste. Unlike many of the other tasting rooms in the Old Sugar mill that feature a simple bar, Elevation Ten's tasting room is spacious and features comfy chairs and high top tables. They also have snacks like cheese available for purchase.
We started with a refreshing 2013 Sauvignon Blanc from Lake County. And finally – from Clarksburg, a dense fruity 2012 Petit Verdot, followed by a nice earthy 2011 Syrah from Napa. But the big winner for us was the 2012 Zinfandel from El Dorado county – let’s just stay that bottle didn’t hang around long on the wine rack.
Clarksburg is certainly discovered, but still much more low-key compared to Napa or Sonoma. And its Sacramento Delta setting is as relaxing as it is beautiful. Old Sugar Mill wine-tasting fees are typically about $5 and are waived if you purchase wine. Not difficult for us.
The Old Sugar Mill doesn’t really have food options, but they encourage picnicking. The venue would certainly be ripe for food truck action. We had popped down to Clarksburg without a lot of pre-planning or research and let fate lead us to most of our tastes. With eleven tasting rooms in the Old Sugar Mill, there is plenty to keep us entertained over the course of future visits. Next time before heading to Clarksburg though, I will stop at The Rind to pick up cheese provisions. And maybe leave a little more time for meandering back and forth across the old bridges the span the scenic river road, before ending at the Old Sugar Mill for some new finds – and old faves.
One thought on “Clarksburg: Vintage Architecture Among the Vines”
Ok. I like buttery oaky. But the other stuff sounds good too!